Thread: Window Regulator and motor

A long time ago I fitted an aftermarket unit I got of ebay. It failed very quickly so I replaced it with a second hand one that has been going perfectly ever since.
John

I've had a similar event. When I pulled the replacement unit out it was full of water so no wonder it stopped.
Sealed up any gaps I could see in the latest unit (aftermarket) and so far so good. Hard to keep water out of the door as weather seals are not great.

I recently purchased a new electric motor for RHS Front window of my 2003-2004 D2a, and found that it differs from the existing (old) one, which has two flat, parallel, brass spade terminals on the exterior of the motor.
A wiring “harness” in the door terminates in a connection block that slides directly onto these terminals.

The new motor has a short wiring “pigtail” ending in its own plastic connector block containing two pins that are much smaller than the spade terminals on the old motor.

Has anyone else dealt with this seeming incompatibility?
If so, could you let me know how you solved it?

I am thinking of a short adaptor or cable that has a male block at one end (to go into the old wiring connector intended for the spade terminals on the old motor) and a female connector at the other end, to connect with the new two-pin male setup on the end of the pigtail coming out of the motor that I have received.

Has anyone seen such an adaptor?

Cheers, AndrewMilne

Originally Posted by AndrewMilne

I recently purchased a new electric motor for RHS Front window of my 2003-2004 D2a, and found that it differs from the existing (old) one, which has two flat, parallel, brass spade terminals on the exterior of the motor.
A wiring “harness” in the door terminates in a connection block that slides directly onto these terminals.

The new motor has a short wiring “pigtail” ending in its own plastic connector block containing two pins that are much smaller than the spade terminals on the old motor.

Has anyone else dealt with this seeming incompatibility?
If so, could you let me know how you solved it?

I am thinking of a short adaptor or cable that has a male block at one end (to go into the old wiring connector intended for the spade terminals on the old motor) and a female connector at the other end, to connect with the new two-pin male setup on the end of the pigtail coming out of the motor that I have received.

Has anyone seen such an adaptor?

Cheers, AndrewMilne

I Andrew even genuine replacements now come with piggy lead. I have been lead to believe you turf the existing connector lead and plug the piggy tail lead into the connection socket inside the door,
Justin C might way in as I'm sure he's replaced a few,
pic of genuine replacement below with piggy lead
GEnuine.jpg

Originally Posted by AndrewMilne

I recently purchased a new electric motor for RHS Front window of my 2003-2004 D2a, and found that it differs from the existing (old) one, which has two flat, parallel, brass spade terminals on the exterior of the motor.
A wiring “harness” in the door terminates in a connection block that slides directly onto these terminals.

The new motor has a short wiring “pigtail” ending in its own plastic connector block containing two pins that are much smaller than the spade terminals on the old motor.

Has anyone else dealt with this seeming incompatibility?
If so, could you let me know how you solved it?

I am thinking of a short adaptor or cable that has a male block at one end (to go into the old wiring connector intended for the spade terminals on the old motor) and a female connector at the other end, to connect with the new two-pin male setup on the end of the pigtail coming out of the motor that I have received.

Has anyone seen such an adaptor?

Cheers, AndrewMilne

Hi Andrew I s[poke to a well known LR mechanic easiest solution is cut old and new plugs off and solder wires or maybe fit a male and female spade connector if you intend to remove the motor again

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

Hi Andrew I s[poke to a well known LR mechanic easiest solution is cut old and new plugs off and solder wires or maybe fit a male and female spade connector if you intend to remove the motor again

Hi Mario,

I have come to much the same conclusion after trying various avenues (including justinc, whom you mentioned).

My inclination is to cut off the connector block on the end of the "pigtail" coming out of the new motor, and solder an ordinary male spade terminal onto each of the 2 wires. Then insert them into the existing door harness's female spade connector block that used to go straight onto the flat terminals on the old motor. If polarity is wrong for "Up" and "Down", then just swap them around.

I'm reluctant to solder the two sets of wires together directly, 'cos I might need to take the window regulator out later on, even if there's nothing wrong with the motor. Then you'd have another cut-and-solder job in an awkward and confined space.

Thanks for continuing to give this some thought!

Cheers, Andrew

Since the immediately preceding post, I have successfully replaced the original (manufactured in 2003) Front RHS window winder motor without needing to cut wires and crimp / solder on alternative connections.

I appreciate that this is not a job that often needs to be done, and that many people may never need to do it.
However, I found that rather little first-hand advice was forthcoming when I asked about it.
So I have written up what I found and did in case it proves helpful to others who may need to do the same job.

In my case, I was replacing a 2003-manufactured motor with no integral power lead with a newer version that comes with a fitted lead.

However, a vital part of what I found and report also applies in the situation where one is replacing a newer-version motor with a similar one. This is because you need to find where to disconnect the end of the lead that is distant from the motor, before you can disconnect and remove the old motor.

The attached PDF sets out what I did and found, with explanatory pictures.
It is freely offered for use / distribution to anyone who may find it useful.
I would like to acknowledge and thank Mario for providing the clue that encouraged me to have another go at doing this job.

Cheers,
AndrewMilne

Hi Andrew and others, I found the same thing when I purchased a regulator last year, thinking my reg was stuffed. Found out my reg was ok then purchased a new motor which had different plugs. I re terminated both lots of wires so they are removable and it was all good. My issue is that now the window doesn’t do the auto stop thing at the top or bottom- it keeps trying to go up or down, jumping the cogs on the reg. Have to hit the button again on the auto up and manually stop it on the way down. Any suggestions on a fix? I don’t want to strip any cogs and have to do the job again!
Cheers Jeff