Not true. They are constrained, and whilst in a 5v sense may be pulling 2a, at the 12v feed side are still well under 1a.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
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Not true. They are constrained, and whilst in a 5v sense may be pulling 2a, at the 12v feed side are still well under 1a.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
What fridge?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Proper fridge or a chiller (peltier) type?
I'd say max draw on the fridge will be more like 5A or so .. due to startup. once running yeah, they can settle down to 1A or so.
But I guess all that is dependent on the fridge.
If your cable run would do 15A without issue, I'd try to find an auto resetting circuit breaker type.
I fitted a 20A breaker to my D1 but can't think of ever running more than about 10A myself(but you never know).
The 12v plugs are capable of 10A or so, and most devices will be fused themselves anyhow.
I don't have a fridge(compressor type) but have an old chiller(peltier) from about 25 years ago. Draws about 4A constantly.
Stupid plug shyte itself and fused internally in the 12v plug(didn't know this at the time tho as the fridge was plugged in)
Anyhow, auto reset breaker did it's thing perfectly and just wouldn't allow any power down the line. Once I noticed all power ports and the volt readout all zilched .. penny dropped.
Had a peek in the 12v port where the fridge plug went into and noted the fitting ring on the end of its plug had got jammed in there.
The 12v plug I fitted to the fridge cord was one of those split types that uses a chrome ring at the tip to lock it all down, as it had a fuse in the plug head. Stupid things .. but that was almost 20 years ago too.
Pulled it out, power restored [thumbsupbig]
From experience, I wouldn't use cigarette plugs for powering fridges. Much too unreliable.
All our fridge plugs are now 50amp Anderson plugs with cable sized to match, and fuses. The camper also has a separate master circuit breaker.
If both the fridge and freezer are running flat out trying to stay cold on a stinking hot day, that is a heavy power drain.
That also means I can plug solar panels with Andersons in and directly charge the batteries. I have metered up to 12 amps from solar going through 15 amp controllers into the batteries.
Its better to oversize and be safe.
And the other thing to note with that is that it's unlikely that they'll even output 2A too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
I have many of them(4 in mine) 3 in brothers, and about 5 in my top drawer, none have even outputed more than about 1.1 -1.3 amps.
Maybe a higher quality 2A unit from a half decent manufacturer may achieve that, but not these generic Chinesium things.
measured using one of those USB power meters.
My Galaxy S8+ only draws 1 amp and my Lenovo M10 running Ozi and backlight full on draws a max of 1.3 amps on their respective USB-C cables(so it's not the cable).
so more like 5-7w at 12v is more like 0.5A max x 2 of them .. 1amp at 12v.
So don't assume that because the device is capable of drawing x amount of power that the USB port is going to give it that.
In saying that, I've yet to have any issues maintaining battery on the M10 tablet for hours on end, with the backlight on full during the day.
It is a compressor fridge freezer, 60L Adventure Kings.
Most plugs are maximum 1 amp. Some are rated 2 amp. Neither is likely to be enough for a fridge-freezer trying to stay cold in hot weather, in my experience. I suggest you fit a separate heavier power lead for the fridge-freezer.
Our experience is that normally a tablet is okay, unless the charge gets really low, when it might only respond to 230 volts.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Huh? That makes absolutely no sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
A tablet only responds to current / voltage in the correct range. If you have a suitable USB charger, putting out the correct current then it’s the same as a mains unit which is doing exactly the same thing.
Cables can and do have an impact on charging also. Cheap cables can be underrated and fail to provide sufficient current flow.
No idea why, cables are fine, only happened a couple of times when the tablet was really flat.
OK the purists will probably not like my setup.
OK the first photo is the contents of my RH box behind the grille.
1 4amp 240 volt charger
2 spare fan tensioner pulley
3 spare donut
4 power block with 1x 4B&S in and 4 8B&S out to go to rear bumper merit plug (for charging battery while at powered site), 1x merit plug for low amp draw stuff) 1xanderson plug for 50Amp compressor or for 240volt inverter just in shot)
2nd photo is of top of RH corner with said Anderson plug, Merit socket , and a 2usb socket. Switch is for USB socket to isolate so that LEDs not lit. This is only used when stationary so no problem with being in the way.
3rd photo is of warning light on LH corner to tell when 10amp DC/DC charger is active with switch above hook. DC/DC charger is for 40AH lithium battery on camper trailer. power to activate relay taken from cigar plug at front, which I know is active on accessory but I hardly ever have the car on accessory.
4th photo is of Merit plug on RH bumper for use with lights on pole behind spare tyre . There is Merit plug on LH side but now solar input for 10amp DC/DC charger which is behind the grille. I don't have a switch as any switch would get gunged up with dust . I just plug in the lights which telescope and have a coiled cord which sits under the spare wheel cover.
There is a Merit plug just below the cigar plug at the front of the LH side boot to run the Engel fridge.
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