Thread: Engine cranking, but won't start!

Where is the car now?
I can come tomorrow and check it out with my Nanocom weather permitting.
I live at Avoca Beach.
Could be the crank position sensor as that is one of the few reason they just stop.
Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Where is the car now?
I can come tomorrow and check it out with my Nanocom weather permitting.
I live at Avoca Beach.
Could be the crank position sensor as that is one of the few reason they just stop.
Regards PhilipA

Hi Philip,

Thank you so much, that would be amazing. I'm in Narara - no worries if that's too far, but if you can with this weather etc I'd be ever so thankful.

Cheers,

Ben

Only because this costs nothing to try!

Do you know the fuel priming sequence?
Ignition on(NO starting) and quickly press the accelerator five times foot to the floor(ie. pump action), and let go and wait.
Give it a sec or so and you will hear slight whirring noises and some swooshing.

I can't remember exactly, but I think a warning light may come on flashing on the dash, and the process will last a good few minutes(maybe approx 5 mins or so).
You will know when it's all done and dusted, light will stop flashing on the dash.

Ign off now, and try to give it a start and see if she goes.

One last 'free' thing to try if it doesn't start as normal: try pumping accelerator as you try to start it. You don't normally need to do this on modern cars, but also been there with TD5s(as well as the above procedure) and sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

OK brains trusts
saw Ben with Nanocom today.
Only 1 error and that is ambient air temperature sensor. So crank position sensor should be OK.

Can hear fuel pump and reacts to ECU priming sequence

Drained some fuel from filter , and was clean and pump was louder so OK maybe ( he has a spare so recommended changing)

Battery was so low even with jumping off mine at 13.7 volts for 1/2 hour that dropped to 11.1 volts on cranking even with jumper still connected and my engine running so unlikely to start anyway.( recommended new battery)

Initially battery was 9.5 volts although this was unlikely to have stopped the car. Ben cannot remember if battery light came on before the engine stopped so could be failed alternator

Throttle position sensor added up correctly to near 5V.( AFAIR 4.99V) ie 0 +4.99 and feed 4.99

Swapped ABS relay and engine relay but no difference.

some relays in engine box Relays clicked quickly for a period with ignition on. They all seemed to be clicking but maybe just 1 .

Horn seemed to blow at random and stopped when ign turned on. I then disabled the main horn from the alarm. Disabled alarm.


I think that there is an earthing problem somewhere.

sort of tested the inertia switch but just stuffed bridge into plug but unsure if contact made( horn blew when inertia switch reconnected!) On road in rain.
ECU Red plug dry Seeing Nanocom communicated with the ECU and the priming sequence worked and the Nanocom read the TPS , it would indicate the ECU may be OK. It didn't smell bad or have any discolouration. I also did tests on stuff like the tachometer which worked.

BTW oil light went off when cranking so oil pump OK, no funny clanking noises while cranking so timing chain ok.

So I am buggered if I know!

I am sure that any contributions would be gratefully accepted by Ben. I have noted these so that he can take it to British Car Parts at Tuggerah.
Regards PhilipA

pull one of the fuel lines in the engine bay to make sure there is actually fuel coming out , I've seen 1 with a ruptured line inside the pump housing , meaning no fuel supply.

pull one of the fuel lines in the engine bay to make sure there is actually fuel coming out , I've seen 1 with a ruptured line inside the pump housing , meaning no fuel supply.

Already done this morning before I went, and fuel came out strongly, but that doesn't necessarily mean that the high pressure side of the pump works, thus my recommendation to change the pump, seeing he has one.
Regards PhilipA

I would change out battery. From memory when i had my td5, i was advised less then 12 v there is insufficient voltage for the ecu to connect. My car would wind over but not fire. changed out for a new battery started straight away.

another suggestion is give the injector harness a shake up and clean the connection to the ecu it happened to me that the engine would not fire and that is what I tried and it worked . I have since replaced the harness and no more problems
Doug