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Thread: TD5 crankshaft seal... stop leaking, you carn't!

  1. #11
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    If its worn between crank and pulley ,its toast. You will need to measure (micrometer) the crank to ensure it's not damaged. Because of the direction of forces or pressure , on the pulley change depending on position in revolution any clearance will cause movement and more wear and bolt will become loose.
    That's my theory anyway good luck with it.
    Regards Pas

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by theelms66 View Post
    If its worn between crank and pulley ,its toast. You will need to measure (micrometer) the crank to ensure it's not damaged. Because of the direction of forces or pressure , on the pulley change depending on position in revolution any clearance will cause movement and more wear and bolt will become loose.
    That's my theory anyway good luck with it.
    Regards Pas
    I have a feeling you might be right. Thanks for the input and advice, I appreciate it.

    Maybe I will but the bullet, measure crank and take pulley to get machined

  3. #13
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    Quite possibly the bolt wasn't sufficiently torqued. The recommended tension is 340 ft/ib (460 n/m), that's tighter than FT and well beyond the scope of a normal light vehicle tension wrench.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Quite possibly the bolt wasn't sufficiently torqued. The recommended tension is 340 ft/ib (460 n/m), that's tighter than FT and well beyond the scope of a normal light vehicle tension wrench.
    Yes, it’s possible. The wrench I used was slipping teeth and so I may not have been able to get it tight enough. I did have a 1M length of water pipe on it though

    I do not have access to a torque wrench that big so am guessing using Nm (1M @ 46kg = 460ish Nm - I think that’s correct?)

    As a side note to this though, Rick from Ricks 4wd Nerang suggested 900Nm...

  5. #15
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    Did you put Loctite on the damper bolt ? Loctite would help stop it from coming loose.
    I recall making two very long tools to hold and tighten the balancer bolt. I think i had 4-5 foot of flat bar or similar with holes where needed.

    Ian
    Bittern

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    If you use a speedie sleeve on the crank snout I'd suggest you thoroughly degrease the wear mark from the seal and fill it with an epoxy metal filler then file smooth before installing the sleeve.

    I've had one on the 350 for years with no probs after doing this.

    cheers, DL
    As I recall, Speedisleeve recommend this filling of any worn surfaces on every application.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    As I recall, Speedisleeve recommend this filling of any worn surfaces on every application.
    I always used Loctite, can't remember what number, anymore.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  8. #18
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    TD5 crankshaft seal... stop leaking, you carn't!

    Quote Originally Posted by ian4002000 View Post
    Did you put Loctite on the damper bolt ? Loctite would help stop it from coming loose.
    I recall making two very long tools to hold and tighten the balancer bolt. I think i had 4-5 foot of flat bar or similar with holes where needed.

    Ian
    Bittern
    Yeah mate, I did actually use loctite. I forgot to mention that. Rick actually advised be not to, and said do it up to 900Nm.

    I used a 600(ish)mm brace with holes and a 1m bit of water pipe. I stood on the 600mm bit and gave the 1m extension a fair can of beans/a whoper of an ugga dugga

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    I always used Loctite, can't remember what number, anymore.

    Hello. The beginning of the end perchance?

  10. #20
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    Felt like at least eleventy ugga duggas but ugga duggas are notoriously variable

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