Am going to go the twin ATB route, interested where you found the rear failing against having to go locker? Will qualify this with one of the reasons I am heading this way (expense is one) is the fact that the D2 has what is regarded as one of the best Traction Control systems and it would appear that techniques is more important than most realize let alone utilize. This also applies doubly to the ATB's i have been assured. I was pointed to this
Land Rover Discovery Series II Off-Road Driving - YouTube
The left foot braking is I was assured even more important with ATB's and the one advantage is that you might avoid getting to the situation where you may need to then change to lock. There is a percentage of times that 50 50 to each side is more effective, but that may be less than most realize. I hope so LOL
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I've heard the TC lovers out there going on about it and how good TC is. But the TC in disco 2 is not even close to the D3 and D4 sensitivity.
I don't think the vic high country is extreme. Yes there are some challenging sections. Which lockers are only needed for 1% of the tracks. But hey 1% can equal 3 hours of winching in one day.
I would rather go slow and crawl than bounce with TC. Honestly I find TC needs to much momentum on steep inclines.
It's the same as the HDC, way to fast down steep hills. A rear locker will stop the power going to rear wheel free spinning as you drop over a edge
Yes it's an old truck and that's why I can afford to put the lockers in.
The upgrades are endless. Bigger tires and muds, drop the swaybars, correct the crown and pinion, lower lt230 ratio for low range etc.... (If you don't agree with that one, I know you haven't done steep terrain)
I feel that on the surface these will provide good bang for buck when it comes to improved capability.
Is this available, thinking it would be preferable to changing both diffs if it is only the low range gearing changed, especially as will be changing the TC in the auto and the work to get this started.
as to the Vic High Country and difficulty quotient maybe not extreme but for me I am not wanting to go EXTREME rather the variance and technical. Still does have steep tracks!!
Had to laugh at the "Old truck" comment re a TD5. Mate purchased a late 90's 80 series for $25K must have put at least half again into it and if had to pay for the time would have doubled his investment. Not much improvement on the marginal TD performance available unless lots of money spent. Certainly some parts are cheaper but having spent 3 days in BIL's 6.2V8 80 series on the Queens Birthday, back still suffering no I don't have a nervous tic, my head just hasn't stopped bobbing - 6.2 conversion was over $20K.
Could be swayed for a rear locker at this price (do agree re electric v air, the idea of putting in a pump to change a mechanical device still leaves me confused when a perfectly good alternator comes standard!) May be worth waiting to hear how it goes before outlaying for the 2nd ATB - it will have an ATB at the front.
I wasn't referring to the TC (Traction Control) I was referring to the CDL (Centre Diff Lock).I've heard the TC lovers out there going on about it and how good TC is. But the TC in disco 2 is not even close to the D3 and D4 sensitivity.
Without locking the centre diff the D2 is pretty much a Soft roader, Once that CDL is locked it makes a Massive difference to the vehicles capability.
A couple of lockers WILL improve a D2's capability and at $1200 for the pair it is a pretty cheap upgrade though.
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
I've done that one on a Deefer and loved it, way too many times I've had to ride brakes on steep and loose downhills, and it gives you so much more choice on climbs, but I can't do it to the D2 due to the howl of the straight cut gears. On a Tdi Defender it was just another noise.
The D2 is too nice a highway car for me, but I have struggled with the desire to get them again.
Yeah a couple of options. There are probably some luck fellas who have the underdrive option, which easier as its bolts onto the PTO on the LT230.
You could follow this link
30 or 49% lower low range ?
Time for an update.
The lockers turned up (E-Locker and Air Locker). At first glance the build quality is not the greatest. Some nicks and burrs as well as what looked to be burnt or old oil. The Pins also slightly exceed the shell meaning getting the crown wheel over will be even harder.
I contacted HF and they assure me that the E-Locker was new. I forwared photos of the manufacture (HF) of the defects.
The instructions for both Air and E Lockers are replica of Eaton and ARB, with literally replacing the ARB or Eaton logo with HF. These lockers are clones or both vendors due to patents expiring allowing a handful of Chinese manufacture to reproduce.
So I measured the backlash and runout of the OE land rover diff for reference. Marked the bearing caps and removed the crown wheel
So I had to grind down the pins with a die grinder. not a big deal but just annoying. Heated the crown wheel in the oven and installed on the Elocker shell. Pressed the bearing and feeling good.
I mounted the diff and noticed the bearing caps rubbing on the Elocker. Unbolted and examined. Seems the bearing caps get a shave at the factory but are inconsitent. I grabbed the caps and went to the machine shop. 10 minutes later the caps are clearing diff shell and rolling well without any preload or backlash.
Started to try and get the backlash and failed miserably. Checked the runout and noticed the crown wheel was 0.25mm (max is .1mm) I rotated the crown wheeel and managed to pull the runout down to .2. which is still ****house. I pulled off the crown wheel and reseated on the OE. - Perfect. I then check the runout against Elocker shell and could see the variation.
I contacted HF and long story short they sent me a new Elocker.
The runout was only just within spec which is a little disappointing. Pulled it altogether and bolted backed up.
Thinking on the home straight, I i bolted in the driver side half shaft (short side) then to the passenger. Sadly I failed. The halfshaft would not pull all the way in. My brother in law had a guess and thought it was pushing on the pin inside the diff. Next day went to the machine shop, and he shaved the axle by 2mm. Got it back home and still no joy.
In a fit of rage, I pulled everything apart and started measuring. So what ive figured out is the diff has more surface area on the spline than the OE landrover. Which is good if your after a stronger axle. however my halfshaft needed 2mm extension on the splines.
The next day back down the machine shop and praying they could "extend" the current 24 splines from 35mm to 37 or 40mm to be safe.
Lucky for me they could. however it will sting me about $350 given you can get new HD for $800-$900 maybe it was a terrible investment. It's more that the wife would kill me if i spent another $1000.
Anyways waiting to get these back, praying that this is all thats wrong and the landy will be on the road.
Ive got video and picture still to come......https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...BGM2EzWkhfSzBR
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
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