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When you have that set up making 200kw and sustaining it day in day out without issues for around 10+ years let me know!
My Defender was / is running that hard - Dave can vouch for it, on a mildly modified stock manifold.
All this SS is doing is enabling higher heat loss into the engine bay and potential fatigue points. The day it fails is likely to be when you need it most.
Remember it’s also supporting all that weight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Hmmm, why the hate LOL For me this is not an issue.The first thought here is extrapolating that thought process - I should have looked at a cast iron exhaust system to maximize its lifespan and keep my toes nice and warm in winter and hot hot hot in summer...
There are many factors that come into play, these anecdotal truths like the brothers Grimm are all based in facts of a sort. For instance the theorem that SS lets more heat into the engine bay is dismissed thankfully on most forums early on, but still a truth when people have a cold carlton stubby in their hands.
Cast VS Welded Turbo Manifolds - TurbosourceSure
would be nice but not available and yes it does mention longevity being a strong suite of cast iron.
Having now gotten 4 ashcroft axles, no not cast iron, but
4340 a 1.8% nickel - chromium - molybdenum high hardenability high tensile steel - generally supplied hardened and tempered in the tensile range of 930 - 1080 Mpa
in this instance I am after longevity and a part specifically made with material choices based on this requirement, thanks for choosing 4340 Ashcroft as the appropriate material (the upgrade from the 4340 is a softer material, who would have thought)So along with other upgraded components such as the V8 torque converter, P38 Trans cooler,&; larger inter cooler again not cast iron... going to stop with the cast iron thing but each components material is chosen for its properties against what the performance imperatives are for it
I am chasing the faster spooling inherent in a tubular manifold not to get POWER but greater torque at 2000 rpm, sure power is a function of the NM and speed but the outright kW number is irrelevant to me. Want to drive with my toes not my foot.More so I am chasing the requirements of my manifold to match my needs, my need is not a manifold that can passed down through the generations with solemn Great Great Grandaddy Arty got 650 kW using this as a daily driver to and from work each day...
I am happy as with the SLS to have a component that may be factored down in the longevity stakes, although 137000 k's would be a good distance to last, to ensure I get close to my needs, in these cases with the manifold low down torque and for the SLS the ride comfort and raising its rear when the going gets tough.
See we agree, we both are getting what we need from our respective manifolds!!!!
PS in my case I hope
PPS people think it is a good idea to put pieces of material in their front axles to enable their 4wds to be 2wds and yet drive at 100 kmph in the rain with their centre of gravity raised hoping to save a bit of money at the bowser...
Looks like both the intercooler (ordered in September arrrgghhg) manifold and turbo are all set to arrive as Santa is checking off his list on the 23rd and 24th, so my Christmas trip is off. Have over the last few months filled the house with bits and pieces so it is going to be one almighty working bee to fit them.
As an adjunct had asked Darkside to pre drill the manifold collector billet for the EGT probe but it appears the GTB2260VK already has one for fitment of it.
As had been planning to do the head gasket as a precaution as the head has not been touched since it left the factory and still has the plastic dowels (got ten metals ones....2.00 am purchases damn you), an opportune second hand Turner head was available at a good price so got that (also got rid of a whole lot of D1 parts as trade) my lovely set of wurth studs and SS spaces may not be required now. That said it will be a good opportunity to thoroughly clean the inlet manifold and get to those pesky fuel supply parts for changing out gaskets etc. So all new bolts and pieces sourced from Turners.
Also took the time to find a better price on the Harmonic Balancer which for L/R are well lets says expensive, I wanted to do also as precaution and with all the radiators out of the front, just a bit easier to get some leverage to crack it I hope.
One advantage of not going away means I can wait on the suspension lift and give myself an easier run at the head change over.
The battery tray will be enlarged for dual fitment and a bracket to hold the ECU saving the expense and time to re=route it into the cabin.
Have ummed and arrred over my desire to fit a Davis electric fuel pump and now having sourced an aftermarket metal Y pipe from a Ram (think it is 1500) to replace the thermostat, this going to go good ahead, again the head and manifold off gives me better access to remove the water pump and seal this up for good. It is the 150 lpm pump with electronic controller and at just over $300 also give me run on for a few minutes after the engine is off to stop heat soak, just going to use the A/C fan to blow at this time.
So as far as budget goes, well went a little bit over but it is not a blow out even with the manifold, turbo, axles and now S/H Turner head (brand new would have been able to justify the cost by the way). I know by taking my time to source pieces and opportune purchases such as the head, front axles and LSD for instance the savings have been substantial and allowed for additional things such as the turbo upgrade to be undertaken.
So would I go through this again? Hmmm, it is a 20 yo vehicle and although has only done highway k's it is still a big leap of faith in the inherent structure and abilities of the TD5, this can only be put against the fact that without the help and knowledge of others on this forum (and others around the world) yes, it has made the stuck at home days of covid bearable and to all who have posted on the hundred of forum pages, thanks! A BIG THANKS!!
Few questions for here, with the gear box out should I look to do the rear crank seal? Front one yes? Is there anything I have missed that jumps out?
So know the month to put it all together and then to hopefully see you on the tracks
REgards
Arty
No hate. No anecdotal evidence. Just experience and knowledge.
Keep going with the Cast Iron thing... [emoji23]
Many of my posts have this line- not my vehicle, not my problem [emoji6]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
on this voyage of discovery, there is so much to take in. Was going to enjoy the basic conveyance of the 300 TDi with absolutely minimal modification but the need to go auto with the break down of my left knee, took that away as a viable alternative, auto TDi would have me taking an extra week off each trip to get there and back.
My TD5 is not the pretty one, with alverston red paint faded and silicon applied by the previous owner to rectify the sunroof leaks and front drivers side windscreen corner but it is for off road. Without the pioneers to find fix the issues which came up and build the font of knowledge any surety would have been impossible for the goal of the cape and a few other bucket list trips.
As an aside, one of the things that tipped me to the SS was my welder mate suggested a 1.5 mm sheet for wrapping a pipe and a couple of good quality hose clamps will get me home if a weld does break (this due to the circular welds), bush mechanics one zero one, just as long as it not off either billet of course. Eyes wide open and be prepared for the worst I suppose.
For me the greatest cause of concern is the auto with an intention to increase the torque well past the 380 nm suggested as the upper limit.
Won’t be too much of a problem - you’ll know when you hit the limit - the trans will go into limp mode.
And according to one LR acquaintance it is very difficult if not impossible to change that parameter to allow a greater power????Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Yes, and much beyond it that transmission will greatlyQuote:
Originally Posted by gavinwibrow
Reduce in life
I concur.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
My car is fitted with a 4HP24, so can take a bit more load if needed.
Was going to ask how you fitted the ZHP24 but then saw it must be to the RR! It must the nirvana, TD5 and ZHP24...Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinwibrow
Must say, one of the things when I got the turner head was how small the Valves are, don't know what I expected but they are well, small and no one ever speaks of them being a hindrance or upgrading. Also the turner head still only has the 4 glow plugs, that really through me out!