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Thread: TD5 starter motor removal: Tool recommendations?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    That flies in the face of all I learnt working on Series IIas. To undo the bolt/nut you wanted it was necessary to dismantle the rest of the car, something which could not be achieved without removing said bolt/nut first. I also experienced this phenomenon on FIATs. Rubber hands are also useful.

    Be assured they have done an even better job of replicating this experience with D3 / D4

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Manifold, engine mount, etc. None of my son's socket sets have a 6" extension. Seems the tool mobs make things for the Japanese car market. But I'll find one in my stuff at home.

    If you've got one a bit shorter as well as a 3/8" to 1/2" adaptor on to 1/2" ratchet that would work as well to get between the starter and engine mount bracket

  3. #23
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    150mm 3/8th wobble drive with a flex head ratchet and a good socket...

    Just so happens...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    Be assured they have done an even better job of replicating this experience with D3 / D4
    Thought they might. 😂🤣😂🤣
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #25
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    I've got a set of both standard and deep sockets, various extensions, wobble bars and uni joints in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2", and adapters for the different drive sizes. I seem to recall the longest part of the process working out the appropriate combination to suit and after that it was quick and easy in and out.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    I seem to recall the longest part of the process working out the appropriate combination to suit and after that it was quick and easy in and out.
    Definitely, the trick is remembering what you used when it comes around next time.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by admiralranga View Post
    Definitely, the trick is remembering what you used when it comes around next time.
    I've only had to do it once so far in my 10 years of ownership. I've kept on top of any FPR leaks so hopefully it'll be a good deal of time before I need to consider returning there.

  8. #28
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    I did mine when I had the inlet manifold off to replace the fuel return hose and FPR..

    AFAIR 3/8 socket with 150MM wobble extension.
    Prior Planning Prevents **** Poor Performance.( 6Ps)

    Regards PhilipA

  9. #29
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    Just did mine with a 600mm extension 1/2 inch drive with a wobble end. from the top side.
    Take out the battery box and drop the fuel cooler to get a decent angle.used black magic to get the socket to line up with the nut, luckily a very short stud was already fitted. Make sure the socket is on good or it'll slip off and round out the nut, its about the limit for the wobble end usable angle

    bottom bolts from underneath. Took out the tranny oil cooler clamps to enable spreading them apart to get at the very bottom bolt.

    got me stuffed how you guys are finding room to do it with the shorter extensions ??? no way could I manage to crack the nut with the swing room available.

    Seriously thinking about cutting out the glow plug wiring, for an easier time next go around.
    I don't want to go anywhere cold anyway

    cheers

  10. #30
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    Wobble bars
    From underneath takes about 10 min

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