Thread: So I purchased a cheapie

Originally Posted by jonesfam

You have forgotten the price because you are old & doddery!

That too.

Actually if anyone on here with a cheapie and a Nanocom is interested, (particularly a MAF with some age on it) wants to send me a log,I can do a bit of a calculation with just a nano log, it's actually more accurate than you might think, but not perfect.

Anyone interested just send me a PM, and we'll go from there.

I have a Nanocom but have never logged the cheap Chinese MAF. My car is an EU3.

It's enough for me to have smooth timely changes. I would notice if the changes hung up or whatever.

I have a spare VDO anyway, as I just bought the Cheapie to test it out and I haven't felt the need to swap.

Tests are good to confirm a theory but usually the proof is in the pudding.

For example when my OEM was bad just after I bought the car it would drop out at the top of revs. I submitted a Nanocom log and it was pointed out by another member that the MAF was over reading and dropping to zero at high revs.
I guess you could say that I just out argued myself but now I have experience I know what to look for. I already suspected a bad MAF but that confirmed it. BTW it's pretty unusual for the MAF to over read apparently.

Regards PhilipA

Yeah they never seem to over read, if you wanna know what's going on for sure, flick me a log.
I would actually like to get a few from the knock offs, I'll post back the results for everyone.

Cheers
James

Originally Posted by Markf

I'm a bit reluctant to go with a cheap Chinese MAF and would rather go with the real thing I think. ..... .

In general, this philosophy makes perfect sense, except(I reckon) with respect to the MAF.

Most other important components, eg. knock sensor or CPS, or alternator, powersteer pump .. etc. If an important part fails, as you'd expect a Chinese version too, then you're very likely to be stranded.
But the MAF whilst not unimportant, can be disconnected, as you already have done on your dud one ... so it's really only 'relatively' important.
That is, can't hurt to try .. other than possibly a waste of about $30 or so.

But you have a possibly OK S/H one to use anyhow, so the point may be moot.

But we did like Philip posted .. got the Chinese, bro then got the genuine thing to be sure, but we kind of decided to use the Chinese one till it died(or played up).
If not for this thread, I'd have forgotten about it too, and I know brother almost certainly has.

I guess the problem is that while the cheap MAF may not leave you stranded, you may be driving for years without realizing that you are running at substandard performance levels, some may not be bothered by this, but I would.

Particularly in a stock engine where performance is already very marginal.

Now here's the cheapie performance review:
(It's a comparison of the stock MAP sensor , which should be pretty accurate)

Based on this, you would be unwise to use one, performance would be quite reduced.

I was a bit surprised no one replied to this, (which is fine) Is the pic I posted clear enough ? Does it even make sense?
If not I'll explain more.

Cheers
James