Thread: Key fob - when you press the button what does the red light do?

AFAIK it should just give one short flash for either button.

I don't know why it would continue to flash, but may be a cracked microswitch or just that the circuit has a fault.

Is the key fob serial correct in the ECU? maybe try to delete the code and reinstall the code.
Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by PhilipA

AFAIK it should just give one short flash for either button.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I don't know why it would continue to flash, but may be a cracked microswitch or just that the circuit has a fault.

A friend just sent me this clip of his remote (which is working and he uses on his D2). The red LED operates the same as mine which is not working.

video-1611654995.mp4

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Is the key fob serial correct in the ECU? maybe try to delete the code and reinstall the code.

Yes, I've opened the key fob and compared the code on the sticker on the circuit board with that in Nanocom and they are a match for Key 2.


(I've partially blocked out the code and all the other codes just incase it's not something that's meant to be shared)

Maybe I need to figure out how to resync the key in Nanocom?

This all started when I accidentally left the ignition in the on position for a few days. Returned to a flat battery and when jump starting wasn't able to crank. After a day on the Ctek charger, I follow the EKA process which disarmed the immobiliser allowing it to start but the key fob has not worked since.
I'll collect my spare tomorrow from the workshop and test.

Flashing LED on the fob if you keep the button pressed is normal, if the vehicle doesnt react to it after the battery went flat it's possible to need reprogramming
Nanocom Evolution Key (Plip) Program for a Discovery 2 - YouTube

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Flashing LED on the fob if you keep the button pressed is normal, if the vehicle doesnt react to it after the battery went flat it's possible to need reprogramming
Nanocom Evolution Key (Plip) Program for a Discovery 2 - YouTube

What the guru said. Bloke knows.

This thread, particularly the video posted by Sierrafery, has encouraged me to programme the new key I purchased two years ago. I only have one functioning key for my car and last week took it swimming. Fortunately it dried out and normal service was resumed in twenty-four hours. If I lose or the only working key fails, I will be up a gum tree.
I've got as far as the key programming and found four key codes occupied, obviously (probably the top two) are the broken and working keys that came with the car.
My questions are:
1: What are the other two key codes?
2: How do I determine which code is for the broken key and can be replaced with the new key?
3: What is Susp.?

Another vote for D1.

If you look on the back of the circuit board there should be a 5? digit code there on a paper sticker. If there is not a paper sticker there is a post recently that had which parts of the serial number which came with the key that you use.
Just compare it with the list.
Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by V8Ian

My questions are:
1: What are the other two key codes?
2: How do I determine which code is for the broken key and can be replaced with the new key?
3: What is Susp.?

1. Those are irrelevant as long as the two for your working fobs are OK, the unused slots are filled by default
2. As PhilipA said, see attachment 1, you can change it with a new code
3. It's the slot where you enter a SLS fob code if you have one like in attachment 2

Collected the spare key and same deal - pressing the buttons has no effect on the car.

Originally Posted by sierrafery

if the vehicle doesnt react to it after the battery went flat it's possible to need reprogramming
Nanocom Evolution Key (Plip) Program for a Discovery 2 - YouTube

I cleared all four key codes out of the Nanocom (replaced with 000000, 111111, 123456 and 654321) then followed the Black Box Solutions YouTube video linked above to program my two keys into the first two positions using the codes as per the sticker on the back of their circuit boards. Neither worked. Entering their codes and SET works, then the SYNC works but the third step of KEY DETECT doesn't work - no error message is received but it continues to say "NOT DETECT." instead of changing to 'DETECTED' like it should if it works, and the keys continue to not function. Tried each separately a few times and no change.

The keys don't seem to be detected on the Nanocoms RF Test either - I suspect issue with the vehicle receiving side...