Thread: TD5 fuel purge... how long?

Originally Posted by Tins

.....I’m beginning to think that you might be right about the pump. It’s been dry for nearly two years...

I hope it is not your pump (ouch). I presume that new pumps are stored dry in their box for similar periods or would they have been lubed?

Is it worth checking that little round in-line air bleed valve with membrane thingy located in one of the fuel filter fittings. If it was close to being clagged before it went dry then it may have difficulty wetting out now. I confess though that I don’t fully understand how that jigger works.

If it is the pump, you replace just the pump, not the whole unit.

Land Rover Discovery Defender TD5 Fuel Pump Kit Genuine VDO Made in Germany 4103590928344 | eBay

if you've got it to the point its trying to start....

do the full 5 minute purge as per the manual and as listed by sierrafray but DO NOT AREOSTART the engine...

if that doesnt get it, bridge the fuel pump relay and let it run with the ignition off for a few minutes.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if you've got it to the point its trying to start....

do the full 5 minute purge as per the manual and as listed by sierrafray but DO NOT AREOSTART the engine...

if that doesnt get it, bridge the fuel pump relay and let it run with the ignition off for a few minutes.

Not going to be anywhere near Geelong next weekend by any chance, Dave?

Originally Posted by Tins

Not going to be anywhere near Geelong next weekend by any chance, Dave?

nope, this weekend has me heading eastish.

nextweekend I should be looking at a series engine build

maybe I can be conned into the weekend after that weekend.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

nope, this weekend has me heading eastish.

nextweekend I should be looking at a series engine build

maybe I can be conned into the weekend after that weekend.

Lol. by that weekend I'll maybe be doing a Series engine rebuild of my own, if the bores aren't too rusty. Or, I'll be setting fire to my D2.

Originally Posted by Tins

Lol. by that weekend I'll maybe be doing a Series engine rebuild of my own, if the bores aren't too rusty. Or, I'll be setting fire to my D2.

I can dispose of the D2 for you No charge!!
When I replaced the fuel pump, it took a lot of purging to get started. The bridge the relay and let it run for a few minutes is a good idea.
Can you here the pump when ignition on turned on, before the you start the engine?

A couple of thoughts from someone who has resurrected a td5 which has been sitting for a while. Mine is a 99 and it doesn't do the 5 pump thing for bleed cycle, just turn it to on but don't crank it and the pump will go for several minutes then turn off. I don't know when they changed it to the 5 pump for bleed, do you get the light flashing in the dash? Once the pump turns off, crank with your foot to the floor, if it doesn't start then repeat.

When you are doing this it is good to give the battery a boost, jump it with a running car if you can and clean the terminals really well. If it has been sitting they will be dirty and I found that clean terminals equaled much better crank speed. TD5 seems to like good starting charge.

See if you can hear any air swishing around in the cylinder head when the pump is running, it may not be able to bleed properly. I did the injector seals and washers then redid them with the LR parts rather than the aftermarket. For whatever reason aftermarket copper washers may not actually seal, I read somewhere that they may be too hard, that person used the aftermarket ones but heat treated them to soften.

Good luck.