Thread: Auto flush with Valvoline?

Originally Posted by James NZ

Hi guys,
I want to do the auto flush on the v8 d2 and change the filter. I was going to do several changes of oil and the advise here after doing a search seems to favour using Penrite ATF FS oil. However Penrite per 4 litre is rather expensive here in NZ compared to Valvoline Maxlife Multi Vehicle ATF which I can get in a 20Litre.

So Is the Valvoline ok to use or am I being a cheap skate? The Valvoline does say it's good for Dexron3H, but I don't know what the "H" stands for?

Cheers, James NZ

GM licensed Dexron in various forms. 3H is merely a license, but it does signify certain modifiers that do such things as reducing foaming.

Most of us have personal faves for oils. Mine is usually Penrite, but Valvoline has been around forever and is usually ok.

You say you are doing a flush? Use the cheaper oils for that, but make the final fill one of the better oils. There are folk here that swear by various synth oils. I'll let them chime in.

Originally Posted by Tins

GM licensed Dexron in various forms. 3H is merely a license, but it does signify certain modifiers that do such things as reducing foaming.


You say you are doing a flush? Use the cheaper oils for that, but make the final fill one of the better oils. There are folk here that swear by various synth oils. I'll let them chime in.

Hi Tins, thanks for the quick reply and good idea about the cheaper oil. I have some Aegis auto fluid, bought a 20L ages ago, but its a mineral oil and I read here that synthetic was the better choice.

I'm being a bit cheap cos I have to spend more money on the car and there's only so much of it to go round

I used to run the Penrite FS but have recently found myself having to rebuild my 4hp22. Shortly after, I've read that 'some' (sorry, a lot was excessive and typing quickly on the phone) of people of late are finding it burning up easily in the box and causing failure. Not sure I'll go back to it to be honest - might try something else.

The full syn will have a longer service life than a mineral oil, and withstands oxidisation from elevated temps better than a straight mineral based oil, but no oil will protect from chronic overheating, and the 4HP22 in the D2 is marginal for size and cooling for towing use.

The full mineral oil will be fine if you don't tow and stick to standard or less service intervals

Originally Posted by Mutley

Shortly after, I've read that a lot of people of late are finding it burning up easily in the box and causing failure.

Where have you read this? Got a hyperlink for us please?

Originally Posted by twr7cx

Where have you read this? Got a hyperlink for us please?

Was on a LR bookface feed. I'll try dig it up if Mr Zuckerberg doesn't classify it as news and hide it on me...

Originally Posted by Mutley

I used to run the Penrite FS but have recently found myself having to rebuild my 4hp22. Shortly after, I've read that a lot of people of late are finding it burning up easily in the box and causing failure. Not sure I'll go back to it to be honest - might try something else.

Please do post link.
What’s a “lot of people”?

People burning up the box is more likely that the cooler is now 15yrs+ old and caked solid causing overheating.