Thread: Dual battery box front front corner

Originally Posted by RRT

Aluminium Heat Shield - Quality Materials to Keep Your Ride Cool

Thanks! They are only 15 minutes from me.

Originally Posted by Tins

Hmm.. my experience was the label on the second battery blistered, which was enough for me to choose to move it. The actual battery shelf becomes almost too hot to touch. I won't be mounting a compressor there without extra shielding. Glad you are happy with yours.

Yup! very happy
I have the ARB battery shelf, bought new and it included a very substantial heavy gauge heat shield / battery hold down clamp in the box which I installed for heat shielding. The compressor is the little ARB one used for air lockers but mine is for operating my air ram CDL actuator, and for tyre inflation. Clean climate controlled air for the compressor is drawn from the vehicle interior, not from the engine compartment, and the air intake disc filter is tucked up out of sight beside the glovebox side wall, and right below the passenger side vent duct. When in low range with the centre diff locked the compressor cycles regularly to maintain pressure for the CDL air ram. It’ll operate this way for hours on end.
No air means no CDL in my setup - it’s never failed and I run without a turbo heat shield having chosen not to replace it when I took it off to repair it. The compressor has been installed +8 years now and shows no signs of heat stress.

Originally Posted by onebob

Yup! very happy
I have the ARB battery shelf, bought new and it included a very substantial heavy gauge heat shield / battery hold down clamp in the box which I installed for heat shielding. The compressor is the little ARB one used for air lockers but mine is for operating my air ram CDL actuator, and for tyre inflation. Clean climate controlled air for the compressor is drawn from the vehicle interior, not from the engine compartment, and the air intake disc filter is tucked up out of sight beside the glovebox side wall, and right below the passenger side vent duct. When in low range with the centre diff locked the compressor cycles regularly to maintain pressure for the CDL air ram. It’ll operate this way for hours on end.
No air means no CDL in my setup - it’s never failed and I run without a turbo heat shield having chosen not to replace it when I took it off to repair it. The compressor has been installed +8 years now and shows no signs of heat stress.

Hmm.. Mine had the ARB shelf when I bought it. Good clamp but not a heat shield in sight. Perhaps it was an earlier version. I believe it was installed at original purchase, 2000. Or perhaps he lost it..

I'd be interested in hearing more about the air op CDL.

Originally Posted by Tins

Hmm.. Mine had the ARB shelf when I bought it. Good clamp but not a heat shield in sight. Perhaps it was an earlier version. I believe it was installed at original purchase, 2000. Or perhaps he lost it..

I'd be interested in hearing more about the air op CDL.

We’re drifting off topic but if you search on youtube for “cmm cdl air shifter” you’ll find after all these years that there’s still two vids online. I got it from Campbell Crawlers in UTAH, USA.

Here’s some pics of mine.... it is a simple single action air ram to which I added a 9lb pull helper spring to assit the internal return spring. I had a double action ram put aside to replace the single action one but it really will not improve the basic function and will require another solenoid and a re configure of the activation switching and nothing to be gained by it.
It took no more 30 mins to install the hardware on the transfer case, and working from under the D2. No pulling out the interior out of the D2 to install the mechanical lever conversions. And best of all when going bush, no wrenching on the selector lever to force recalcitrant engagement / disengagement of the CDL. There were naysayers though ie - “I wouldn’t trust that - give me levers, linkages and cables, they wont fail” but they do !!, and there’s one the reason why heavy transport vehicles use pneumatic controls.
Ask a road train driver

Off topic is normal here, just ask Homestar.

I have here, in a box, a CDL shifter based on a wiper motor. It worked, but it wouldn't be a patch on that. If you are going to have two air lockers, why not make it three?

Thanks for the pics etc.

Originally Posted by Tins

Off topic is normal here, just ask Homestar.

I have here, in a box, a CDL shifter based on a wiper motor. It worked, but it wouldn't be a patch on that. If you are going to have two air lockers, why not make it three?

Thanks for the pics etc.

Ha! ... way back then... I contacted the mob ( no names no pack drill) who where selling those wiper motor thingys and they said they weren’t doing them anymore and D1 levers if you could get one were going for $700+++ so I looked for alternatives..

Originally Posted by onebob

Ha! ... way back then... I contacted the mob ( no names no pack drill) who where selling those wiper motor thingys and they said they weren’t doing them anymore and D1 levers if you could get one were going for $700+++ so I looked for alternatives..

I know who you mean..

My D2 has a lever and cable setup originally fitted by R*******s at time of new purchase. It works fine, but the two lever thing can be confusing in tight moments.

I also have a D1 lever setup cost me ten quid from picka....

Originally Posted by onebob

Ask a road train driver

Until he blows a Suzi line....