Seems a logical time to upgrade to a new Defender?
Hopefully you should have less problems with the new ride.
Long story short, the ACE pump has dropped its guts. Collateral damage is fanbelt and top hose.
I have a new thermostat that I'll fit while I'm in the cooling department. Should I put a new water pump on too, as a preventative measure? It's just clicked over 200,000 km.
How hard is it to fit an ACE pump? Looks like the a/c compressor is in the way.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Seems a logical time to upgrade to a new Defender?
Hopefully you should have less problems with the new ride.
Can't see that ever happening, Paul. The electrickery in D2 scares the bejesus out of me.
What happened to the old Falcons and Holdens that only needed an oil change and grease for preventative maintenance, stuff that wore out gave plenty of notice and was easy to remove, refurbish or replace and reassemble?
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
If you do the water pump, remember to replace the O ring between the block and auxiliary housing.
You need to undo the AC comp for that, but it's a case of unfoing the mounting bolts and finagleing it of the way. The hoses stay connected.
I replaced all those at 135,000km as a JIC measure.
The seals and bearings are nearly 20 years old, I've had so many O rings fail purely due to age hardening, to me it's preventative maintenance.
Yes I know, its all gone with the dinosaurs.Although the D2 could be called old hat these days.
Everything has to be the complete opposite or its no good these days, complicated,difficult to repair/replace,expensive,and on it goes.
All a PITA.
One of my brothers recently bought an XY,i think it is,Falcon, for his daily, got sick of all this modern crap
 Swaggie
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberI found it MUCH easier when doing the water pump to start at the front by removing the power steering pulley then the power steering pump , and then the bracket with water pump attached.
That way you don't have to remove the centrifuge.
The only poor accessibility is the middle bracket bolt at the back and a 3/8 socket and wobble extension will do it.
Regards PhilipA
This ^
That's how I did it, too
I took the exh manifold off as well, it gives more access and took the opportunity to get the thing surface ground and end holes 1 & 2 drill sizes larger to stop the warping, it had already twisted on the firewall end (and had it ceramic coated, too)
And if you have the manifold off, replace the hose off the oil cooler that's hidden in there. Yours might be the blank cap type, being the last of the 2a's.
It can get cooked as its sitting under the manifold and behind the turbo, and you don't know it's there until it pops and dumps all your coolant.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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