Thread: TD5 engine noise

Originally Posted by TroyMortimer

What was interesting was how rough the idle was without the belt. Is this normal? I check the nanocom, I was getting 20+ variances. As soon as i put the belt back on, the cylinder variances were with 1 or 2.

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Maybe the belt on the harmonic balancer steadys it.
This may help, it has a TD5 technical manual.
Resources

So i checked flex plate. Interestingly. Mine seems to be up side down compared to images found on the internet.

From what i could see no cracks on the right or left side. Could not see the bolt at the top. (I found guy showing how he diagnosed his toyota) tried the gear thing and didnt really change the sound.

Ive ordered a new oil pump bolt and gasket. Think I drop sump later, replace the oil pump bolt and see if any shaving are in the bottom of the sump. when i did my oil change I did not notice anything out of the ordinary.

Looking through Rave, I think i can access bearing caps, looks like you have to remove the oil pump then the stiffner plate.

This looks like a PITA.

Not that i have tools to remove the engine, but it feel like it a bigger project.

Have you double checked the easy things ie all ancillaries incl exhaust?

Engine mounts are pretty critical on Td5s.

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Engine mounts are pretty critical on Td5s.

any tips on how to diagnose a failed engine mount. Also with the flex plate will this rotate with the flywheel? so the bolt at the top should become visable as the car moves?

Originally Posted by TroyMortimer

any tips on how to diagnose a failed engine mount. Also with the flex plate will this rotate with the flywheel? so the bolt at the top should become visable as the car moves?

Put car in neutral, chock wheels (sure you did this already but just rehashing)

You can spin engine by front balancer bolt or with screwdriver in flywheel teeth from down below and check the flex plate and bolt tightness as each becomes accessable.

Do a search on the Td5 engine mount check or someone will hopefully give you a procedure on here or have a read of the rave manual.

Normally I just look for the rubber to be collapsed on hydraulic ones and solid rubber you lift the engine a little and the break becomes evident.

Youtube is good for this becomes a pic is worth a thousand words and a how to video even more.

I can quite confidently say it is not your engine mounts, (until I am proven wrong ) they don't make that regular type of noise, at idle in neutral the motor is sitting on them pretty still. You would see the motor bouncing side to side in rythm with the tap/slap noise if the mount had collapsed and it was metal on metal.

You are going to nut this out yourself in the end as you will soon learn the well meaning suggestions will get you nowhere most of the time because people will skim through the thread and not take it in properly or answer based on the first post and repeat what has already being suggested or done.

None of us are there on the spot and each of us has a different level of diagnostic skill sets. So all we can do is through suggestions at you and some will sound sensible and be totally wrong.

I am happy you are hunting this down, the more you do the more you learn and empowerment is a good thing. Even if it ends up at a shop what they find and you then going over in your mind of what you did will teach you how to diagnose better.

I would be doing all the checks you are doing anyway it is part of the fault finding.

not sure if these are cracks or surface blemishes. you have to zoom the photos.
I was originally checking the out side bolts but notice the line when checking the photos out. went a took a couple more. the last two images are about half way on plate.

I couldn't get my finger in there to feel for a crack

thoughts anyone?20210625_195355.jpg20210625_201805.jpg20210625_202148.jpeg20210625_195538.jpeg20210625_194100(0).jpeg

defintely lines, not cracks.
Could be that one day soon it may crack under hard loading or something.
But as is, not cracked.