Oops, didn't see that. Yeah that's a questionable choice
Oops, didn't see that. Yeah that's a questionable choice
I'd try resetting the adaptive values as well, you mentioned earlier you had a Nanocom...they will do that just fine.
But that said, it's a long shot as it will re learn as you go along anyway, but it does take some time.
As mentioned, probable that some material had got where it shouldn't.
I read you said it was full, wowed you get the correct level?
Heres an excellent video on servicing replacing fitter etc and the correct fill process Atlantic British Presents: Transmission Service Performed on Land Rover Discovery Series II - YouTube
i recall that in the old days auto transmission had a vacuum device fitted to make the gearshift changes smoother. There may be something in the tranny that is built for this purpose. You will need to have a read of a workshop auto rebuild manual and see if you can find the cause of the harsh shifting.
are the gearshifts harsh all the time or only under hard accelaration ? at what revs are the shifts occuring ?
Have you contacted Ashcrofts to see if they have an ideas as to what is occuring ?
Ian
Bittern
The old day transmissions were not electronically controlled. So there were two ways to control transmission pressures.
It was either using a cable which was often incorrectly called a kick down cable , or a vacuum modulator was used.
Through engine vacuum, the tranny could work out throttle position to adjust tranny pressure to suit.
So no, you won't find one in or on a ZF.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
Hi all,
Thanks for your input and assistance with this - we got it going today. I ordered a secondhand valve body from a rover wrecker who suggested it would be in good working order. The plan was to simply remove mine and fit the replacement and see what difference it makes. The secondhand unit wasn;t looking so crash hot - the tranny fluid had turned black, and there was quite a bit of grey sludge and metal filings. When we removed my valve body, it looked immaculate. We decided to get to work on that instead. We didn't separate the two halves to reveal all the journals and plungers, we just removed the solenoids and the journal/plunger assemblies that accompany those. We tested each solenoid (all working), and removed the plungers but they all seemed clean and working smoothly. We then found what we believed to be the issue - the pressure control solenoid has a very small mesh filter in the end, which was completely blocked with the fibrous material from the old torque converter. We cleaned that out thoroughly, put everything back together, replaced the tranny fluid, and closed her back up. We also replaced the XYZ inhibitor (which was not always recognising drive, and not allowing me to engage 1st), and reset the adaptive values. Great success - it drives like a dream now. To anyone who hasn't done the Ashcroft TC upgrade, I really highly recommend it - she drives like a different vehicle...smoother, more pickup, more responsive...just far more pleasant to drive. I am certain to get a speeding ticket!
Thanks again, your suggestions really helped steer me in the right direction.
The previous owner did a few mods, I've just enjoyed driving it and made a few repairs along the way. Larger intercooler, catch can, larger radiator, EGR delete, Larger exhaust, Frantz filter (now removed), chipped ECU, redarc gearbox temp gauge and boost gauge, redarc low coolant alarm...he just wanted to tow his van around the country without any issues. Didn't quite work for him, he still had to replace the engine (I think it was an oil pump failure) and have the gearbox fully rebuilt not that long before he sold the vehicle to me. Aside from repairs along the way, all I've done is the TC upgrade just now.
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