Thread: Assist on whether car is worth purchasing

Originally Posted by phrogers123

G'day team,

I've just had a D2a, 293000 Classic have its RWC inspection as a pre-purchase precaution. Asking price $4800. No rego, no RWC.

Unfortunately it has come back with a long list of recommendations. As someone who is just starting their Land Rover journey, I am apprehensive to purchase.

I'm asking for advice as to whether or not these jobs are worth doing for the vehicle, or any solutions you may have to offer. I am willing to do a lot of the work myself, however, I am a novice when working on cars. I have not yet been quoted for the work. However, my guess is close to the asking price for the car at best.


The list of work needed (in the words of the quote):

Big oil leak from engine rear, front and transfer case
Coolant leak from top of the engine Rh
Both front CV joints need replacing
Both Front lower ball joints need replacing
LH/F Tie Rod end split
Steering Box leaking
Rear brake rotor undersized
Rh/F Link pin worn

There are quite a few superficial items as well such as drivers seat replacing which are very simple to do myself. They total around ($300).

Any advice on these jobs listed and whether or not I should continue to purchase would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Dont walk away from this deal, RUN away from it as fast as you can

Not sure what you mean by D2a Classic. Classic only refers to the original shape Range Rover from 1970 to about 1994 when it was replaced by the P38a.
The problem with buying an unregistered vehicle in Victoria is that a new registration will be more stringent than just getting a RWC for a rego transfer and you may well have to have the car taken "over the pits" at VicRoads. A previously allowed repair (like, say, on the chassis) may now be deemed as illegal and not pass. I'd probably just clarify with your tester if there could be any nasties along those lines.
It's hard to advise as we are all different, but if you were familiar with D2s and had heaps of tools and spares lying around, then you may well be able to bring the car back to life. Apart from the engine oil leak (which could be anything from simple to catastrophic) the other bits aren't a big deal for the mechanically minded. You don't say what the engine is. If the V8, they don't like overheating and if the coolant leakage is related to that you may have a cooked motor. Mind you, if the leak is from the TD5 head, that could be nasty, too.

Originally Posted by DieselLSE

Not sure what you mean by D2a Classic. Classic only refers to the original shape Range Rover from 1970 to about 1994 when it was replaced by the P38a.
The problem with buying an unregistered vehicle in Victoria is that a new registration will be more stringent than just getting a RWC for a rego transfer and you may well have to have the car taken "over the pits" at VicRoads. A previously allowed repair (like, say, on the chassis) may now be deemed as illegal and not pass. I'd probably just clarify with your tester if there could be any nasties along those lines.
It's hard to advise as we are all different, but if you were familiar with D2s and had heaps of tools and spares lying around, then you may well be able to bring the car back to life. Apart from the engine oil leak (which could be anything from simple to catastrophic) the other bits aren't a big deal for the mechanically minded. You don't say what the engine is. If the V8, they don't like overheating and if the coolant leakage is related to that you may have a cooked motor. Mind you, if the leak is from the TD5 head, that could be nasty, too.

Sorry, that's not actually correct, the last ones of the discovery 2 model that were sold off pronto because of the impending arrival of the discovery 3 were branded "classic".

It was a run out type situation, you could get DVD players, 18 inch wheels etc etc etc.

So... All it means is that it was one of last!

Of course being such a long time ago , the actual maintenance fine by the owner is of far more value than being a year or 2 newer.

That said, the "classic" had all the updates that were some along the way, which is worth having for sure.

Cheers
James

Originally Posted by DieselLSE

Not sure what you mean by D2a Classic. Classic only refers to the original shape Range Rover from 1970 to about 1994 when it was replaced by the P38a.
The problem with buying an unregistered vehicle in Victoria is that a new registration will be more stringent than just getting a RWC for a rego transfer and you may well have to have the car taken "over the pits" at VicRoads. A previously allowed repair (like, say, on the chassis) may now be deemed as illegal and not pass. I'd probably just clarify with your tester if there could be any nasties along those lines.
It's hard to advise as we are all different, but if you were familiar with D2s and had heaps of tools and spares lying around, then you may well be able to bring the car back to life. Apart from the engine oil leak (which could be anything from simple to catastrophic) the other bits aren't a big deal for the mechanically minded. You don't say what the engine is. If the V8, they don't like overheating and if the coolant leakage is related to that you may have a cooked motor. Mind you, if the leak is from the TD5 head, that could be nasty, too.

Thanks for that, I have updated the post accordingly. The vehicle is a Discovery 2a 2004 TD5.

Originally Posted by DieselLSE

Not sure what you mean by D2a Classic. Classic only refers to the original shape Range Rover from 1970 to about 1994 when it was replaced by the P38a.

Not correct - I can remember the Bush Tucker Guy flogging the D2 Classic in the early two noughties.

Here it is - Town and Country versions of the D2 Classic

Land Rover Discovery Classic - 2004 - Next Car Pty Ltd

Originally Posted by 101RRS

Not correct - I can remember the Bush Tucker Guy flogging the D2 Classic in the early two noughties.

Here it is - Town and Country versions of the D2 Classic

Land Rover Discovery Classic - 2004 - Next Car Pty Ltd

I bought new, a Mayer Gold coloured "Town" Classic D2a,built May '04.Five seater,coils all round.
I left the 18" wheels at the dealer,and kept the 16's from the '01 D2 i traded in on it.

That Classic was by far,the best D2 i ever owned.
It was even less problematic than our D4,and cheaper to run,although the D4 was light years ahead in many ways.

is it auto or manual?

That list of jobs is easy enough to do.
Doesn't sound like OP would be the type to DIY tho .. so could be costly.

Rear main isn't hard to do, and as a precaution for future reliability I'd be inclined on a D2 TD5(if auto) is the flex plate.
To do so, needs engine and auto separated anyhow .. so to do the rear main seal is a no brainer.

I have a philosophy of not trusting previous owners, many of whom are total numbskulls when it comes to upkeep of their vehicles.
My current D2 is a classic example of neanderthalls at work. It was my brothers D2 for 5 or so years, and he's now got a new car, and prefers that, so I bought his D2.
I pulled most of the interior apart and found some previous owner had literally smashed the deep insides of the heater box/ducting to smithereens!

WHY!? what moronic psychopathic episode must they have had, to destroy the vent ducting down to about 20 individual shards of plastic. Took forever with epoxy to get it all straightened out so that air would flow nicely out of the fascia ducting again.

So buy cheap, and prepare to fix the stuff required and enjoy happy motoring for years to come.

Engine oil leaks are not always obvious, and many a mechanic has misdiagnosed what is actually leaking(myself included).
Needs a good washdown to see where from.
Transfer case is common, most likely the intermediate shaft. Can be replaced without needing a full rebuild.
Coolant leak from top RHS??? headgasket maybe. Or else could be fuel cooler spraying onto engine?? Sounds weird, and assuming RHS = drivers as per normal ... not as you are viewing from front of car.
CV joints easy to replace. Not overly common to hear of worn CV in D2s .. doesn't mean it don't happen tho. Boots do crack and wear. Either way not overly expensive.
balljoints, do all four! Again, not massively expensive.
steering: tie rod ends .. just replace them all. Steerign is probably leakign from the (lower) output shaft... should be easy fix, possible that it may be badly worn and needs a box .. second hand isn't too expensive to replace.
Brake discs .. they're quite cheap, I'd tell mechanic to replace them all too.
LHF link pin??? not sure what this refers too.

Really the only major issue you've listed is the coolant leak. Could be simply a hose clamp needs to be tightened .. or a full rebuild of the motor.

if you're willing to do work and make the vehicle a project, it can be a satisfying experience to learn how too .. and understand what's going on under your bottom!

I wouldn't say "run away" .. I'd say consider all your options.
The major caveat here I think may be the tans, if it's auto(and most are). Will need to be checked for trans fluid colour, and not easy to do as you need to get under it and remove the plug and all that. In the old days you had a dipstick you could check in a jiffy. If the vehicle has been so neglected .. good chance that an auto box has been too. But needs checking.


1/. maybe find one for a good $10-15K with a claimed service history .. then in a year maybe 18 months watch your bank balance drain away as all the small niggles appear, because some person has the ability to convince another that their word is gospel.
2/. buy the cheaper vehicle for 1/3rd that price range, put the $s into it, and then you KNOW .. that it's been done .. and then watch your bank balance shrink as it slowly builds up a list of niggles to take care of

If it were my money .. I see a project car there. I'd negotiate a much lower price .. at the least closer to $4K. But really no reg and RWC more like starting at $3K and see how seller fares(how desperate to sell). And this supposes a good body, no rust and good interior(except the drivers seat) .. they all break down.

Big oil leak from engine rear, front and transfer case

Most probably and common, rear could be rocker cover gasket and front the round plug at the front of teh timing case. But could be rear main.

Coolant leak from top of the engine Rh

There are no hoses on the RH. if they really mean LH , could be water pump which is cheap . If actually RH then could be leaking head gasket and up to $2500

Both front CV joints need replacing

maybe . Second hand from low mileage V8.

Both Front lower ball joints need replacing

very common in vehicle that age. Probably expensive at up to $1000

LH/F Tie Rod end split

cheap

Steering Box leaking

hmm, could be just a seal , but maybe needs rebuild. Cheapest would be second hand from low mileage V8.

Rear brake rotor undersized

No big deal parts $150 or so.

Rh/F Link pin worn

I don't even know what that means but conjecture maybe anti roll bar rod. This is not expensive and easy to do.
Regards PhilipA