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Thread: Tools to prep a recently purchased TD5

  1. #21
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    Tools to prep a recently purchased TD5

    A mate here purchased a RRS with a stuffed transmission for $3k from Tassie.

    Put $10k into the vehicle - new transmission and a few other bits and pieces. It’s since done another 100k without issue.

    A tail shaft bearing etc shouldn’t be a worry.
    And a properly maintained EPB doesn’t fail.
    Rebuild kits are all of $50 if you do have a problem though.

    And Phillip… how much have you sunk into that D2?

    Plenty have had transmission rebuilds, front shafts, donuts, diffs, axles, head work, turbos, manifolds, FPRs, suspension components, ECUs, Alarms, fuse box leaks/damage.
    Cranks aren’t a TD5 issue, heads and fuel galleries are!

    The more they’re used for more than just mall crawling the more work they need.

    Staying on top of things is more important than repairs. Simple maintenance, and the prompt resolution of issues saves a lot of money.

  2. #22
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    Reading this thread, I'm not afraid of much mechanically (just done the head and bits on my sons D2a) but if I was travelling that far and then planning a bit of holiday around Tassie and then peddling it back to SA I would just find a local specialist garage and get a very thorough inspection/service done, yep might cost a bit up front but at least you should have a very good idea of where it is at. I honestly not a fan of fixing things while on holiday. Probably a good idea as others have said to pick up a few basic tools (a 200mm slim, wide jaw shifter is a god send, especially for the fan hub) and run from there.
    Bugger for the OP that the seller has pulled out, sort of sounds like he's found a buyer that's offering more $$$ but just keep an eye out, there are plenty around, just have to know where to look

    cheers

    Reddirt204

  3. #23
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    And Phillip… how much have you sunk into that D2?

    Plenty have had transmission rebuilds, front shafts, donuts, diffs, axles, head work, turbos, manifolds, FPRs, suspension components, ECUs, Alarms, fuse box leaks/damage.
    Cranks aren’t a TD5 issue, heads and fuel galleries are!
    I have owned it for 8 years now and have probably spent more on mods than on repairs.

    I have fitted a new/second hand driveshaft which cost $100, biggest expense was transmission cooler lines at $400, what else? 2 front hubs/wheel bearings, a new alternator 8 years ago, injection harness, couple of sump gaskets and

    rocker cover gaskets, a new VDO MAF which I just refitted after a year or so with an experimental Chinese one. New radiator even though when I pulled the old one apart it was OK. Shocks once maybe due again. FPR changed,

    Oh biggest expense was fuel line wearing through which cost me $600 with airfreight parts and labour as I used NRMA premium and you have to use a mechanic. They paid accommodation in Kununurra and a hire car!

    No axles, head gaskets, transmissions, donuts, turbos, fuse boxes, alarms , ECUs, or any other major thing.

    So really very little ( maybe 2-3K) over 8 years and 90,000Km, including GRR, and towing a 1tonne camper trailer.
    By far the most reliable Land Rover I have ever had.

    I guess I was lucky to buy a 134KM car that had only been used in the burbs.
    Regards PhilipA
    .

  4. #24
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    Tools to prep a recently purchased TD5

    I’ve replaced 2 suspension bushes, an alternator and one hose (and the hose was due to bad service by dealer) Tools to prep a recently purchased TD5. 10 years Tools to prep a recently purchased TD5

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    I’ve replaced 2 suspension bushes, an alternator and one hose (and the hose was due to bad service by dealer) Tools to prep a recently purchased TD5. 10 years Tools to prep a recently purchased TD5
    That sounds like a lucky run Tombie, as well as no doubt some good and pre-emptive maintenance.

    Personally I was happy to get rid of my L322 3.6TDV8...just so many things that can go wrong, constant drain on battery from all the electronics and a nightmare to work on in the engine bay - the problem with V motors in restrictive engine bays...not to mention more cooling issues with V motors vs in-line, exacerbated by the extensive use of plastic in modern engine bays.

    My D2 Td5 now seems positively simple to work on...plenty of space around an in-line motor... I'm also happy to have coil springs combined with ACE...It's a comfortable ride and still handles well, without all the potential hassles of EAS.
    Always looking for creative new ways to get bogged... :whistling:

    76 RR...sold coz fuel was expensive at 70c/l :eek:
    93 200 Tdi Disco...old faithful...sold to make way for...
    99 Td5 Disco ACE...nice drive...hopefully reliable...

  6. #26
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    The other issue with the 2.5t plus D3/4/RR behemoths is the impact of that weight on tyres, brakes, suspension components and handling. My 2.7t L322 was a brake dust generator and understeered when pushed, hard on tyres, LCA bushes etc. I never thought I'd call a D2 nimble, but that's what it felt like after the L322...much easier to park and punt around a twisty road and to place on tight tracks...
    Always looking for creative new ways to get bogged... :whistling:

    76 RR...sold coz fuel was expensive at 70c/l :eek:
    93 200 Tdi Disco...old faithful...sold to make way for...
    99 Td5 Disco ACE...nice drive...hopefully reliable...

  7. #27
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    This is a very nice one but expensive.
    Mods relevant to this thread as D2 in Perth dropped out.
    Marketplace - 2004 Land Rover Discovery | Facebook

    Regards PhilipA
    I have PMd OP so can shift to marketplace alerts if you like , but is relevant here.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    This is a very nice one but expensive.
    Mods relevant to this thread as D2 in Perth dropped out.
    Marketplace - 2004 Land Rover Discovery | Facebook

    Regards PhilipA
    I have PMd OP so can shift to marketplace alerts if you like , but is relevant here.
    Hmmm, definitely be taking a Nanocom with me to check this one out.

    What's with the broken instrument binnacle? Speedo/BCU change out?

    And what's with the broken oil warning light?

    I'd be buying a vehicle check on this one....

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