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Mt 10 cents worth. Make sure your battery is in top condition. I had one that wound and wound would not start after injector washer change. Mate suggested new battery. Wound it over a couple of times with my foot on the accelerator about half way down and it started. I have heard it suggested that the ecu needs a minimum voltage to kick it into action.
Battery is 11 months old and and fine.
Gave it regular charges during the 7 months that the car has been off the road.
Dave, can you chech the voltage while the engine is cranking? The ECU is very voltage sensitive.
Just for info. If you go to TD5 Engine in the Nanocom, then Settings then Injectors Throttle do the injector codes display? If they do then I would think that the ECU and injector harness are ok. If they don't.....
If the Nanocom is showing cranking rpm that means the CPS is fine and that the ECU for all we can see is also fine.
The engine will run whether the injectors are coded or not, and the injectors and engine ECU do not communicate with each other at all.
As suggested you can try testing the injectors with the nanocom, if it's quiet and you can hear them click that would be another indication that the loom and injectors are fine and that the ECU has basic functionality.
How many purge cycles have you done?
Up to 4 or 5 may be required, and they take a minute or so each.
The other obvious thing is holding the accelerator flat to the floor when cranking as this will also purge the injectors, not just the head.
Cheers
James
And I apologize for anything I posted that has already been covered.. Big day
Yep codes display. I tried Shack's advice and listened for the injector click.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
As my hearing is not the best these days, I went out last night at 1:00 am when it was dead quiet. I reckon I could hear a faint click when doing injector test with Nanocom
I now have good and bad news.
The good. After trying again to start, using the pedal flat to the floor it started to fire.
I have tried about 8 times now, over a few hours, to give the starter motor recovery time and put charger on battery so next try has full umph.
Each try is 15 to 20 second bursts and it is trying to start, but not all cyl are firing.
When I feel the exhaust manifold, number 1 is quite warm and number 5 is cold. The 3 in the middle are luke warm
So what I deduce from this. Number one is firing. Number 5 is not. The other 3, not sure, as the warmth could be from number 1's fire.
More ideas please
Unlikely, I know, but you didn't by some chance leave something blocking the intake?
Just rewinding a whisker....
Did you hear the engine running before you fitted it?
Have you had the injectors or cam out or head off?
I think it would be difficult, but maybe not impossible to tell the temperature difference between a firing and not firing cylinder, particulary if it's not actually running
Number 5 does not have a glow plug, although I am not sure if that would make a difference at the temps you have.Quote:
Originally Posted by d2dave
BOM has minimum of 11.1C overnight for Tatura, last night.
It's Running:arms::arms::arms::banana::banana::banana:[smilebigeye][smilebigeye][smilebigeye]:arms::arms::arms::arms::banana::banana::banana::b anana::banana:[smilebigeye][smilebigeye][smilebigeye][smilebigeye]
A very huge thank you to everyone who has contributed to helping me here. I cannot express my appreciation enough.
If we all lived in the same town I would be shouting beers. Hopefully in the not to distant future with car sorted, I can hook up my Tvan(which I purchased just on 12 months ago and with work, covid and the car have not yet used it) and maybe catch up with some of you and we can have that beer.
When it finally fired, it was running like a dog, with number 5 cool at manifold and black smoke like you see at truck drags coming from exhaust.
Cyl balance on nanocom confirmed number 5 was way out of wack. Anyhow, I turned it off, restarted it and it sounded better. Checked exhaust, no smoke.
Checked engine, sounded smooth and normal.
One final question. I do intend to source a spare ECU. Apart from injector coding, what else has to be done to make it work?
Does anyone know this?