Thread: Help. Engine Wont Start

Originally Posted by d2dave

I have just nearly finished fitting a second hand Td5 engine to my 03 Disco.

It wont start. It cranks over fine.

I can hear fuel pump running and I even took a fuel line off the pressure regulator, hit the key and it squirted fuel.

I have definitely got the plug on the crank angle sensor

When I connected the battery I did not realise that the ignition was on and I did get a rather large spark.

Is it possible that I could have spiked and fried the ECU?

I plugged nanocom in and no faults showed. I then unplugged the injector loom from under the head and cranked the engine to see if Nanocom would show a fault

No fault showed up. I thought that this was strange.

What I haven't yet done was code the injectors, however my understanding is the engine will run with wrong codes' just not at optimum. Is this correct.

Any one got ideas where else to look?

As long as you hooked the leads onto the correct poles, and you didn't have any other wiring incorrectly fitted, it shouldn't be a problem.

Has it fired at all?

It could need bleeding/fuel purge.

It could be the inertia switch.

What is displayed on the dash when you turn it on? Is it normal?

Does the nanocom show any rpm when you crank it?

Sometimes it takes a couple of bleed sequences with a foot to the floor while cranking to get the air out on an engine change.
make sure you have revs showing on nanocom while cranking so you know crank sensor is working.
Fuel comes into the top inlet on reg , these can be mixed up.
Will run with uncoded injectors.

Originally Posted by discorevy

Sometimes it takes a couple of bleed sequences with a foot to the floor while cranking to get the air out on an engine change.
make sure you have revs showing on nanocom while cranking so you know crank sensor is working.
Fuel comes into the top inlet on reg , these can be mixed up.
Will run with uncoded injectors.

Having done an engine change with one that was sitting around for 5 years it does take a lot of cranking to make it live. It was as if there was no compression until all the lifters were recharged and then it sprung to life perfectly. Ditto with the bleed sequences.

Long shot, but make sure you haven't crimped or otherwise compromised the wires going to the CAS. I did that on mine.

As long as you hooked the leads onto the correct poles, and you didn't have any other wiring incorrectly fitted, it shouldn't be a problem.

Has it fired at all? No

It could need bleeding/fuel purge. Done this. Turned on ignition, pressed accelerator pedal times, Mil light illuminated and fuel pump runs continually.

It could be the inertia switch. My experience with this is that when it needs resetting engine wont crank. I did still check it though.

What is displayed on the dash when you turn it on? Is it normal? All seems normal. A sqillion lights illuminate.

Does the nanocom show any rpm when you crank it? Yes. It is showing around 225 RPM

I assume RPM reading means crank sensor is working, yes?

Originally Posted by Pippin

Having done an engine change with one that was sitting around for 5 years it does take a lot of cranking to make it live. It was as if there was no compression until all the lifters were recharged and then it sprung to life perfectly. Ditto with the bleed sequences.

This one was sitting around for about years.

I have tried lots of times to start and given it heaps of fuel priming.

I have checked the fuel lines for correct orientation, using RAVE diagram.

My son is coming home on Wed. He has an 04 Td5. If I try my ECU in his car for testing, will any programing be needed to make it work or will it be plug and play?

I have removed the fuel return line from the fuel cooler and a good steady flow of fuel came out when the key was turned on.

So this tells me that there is a good supply of fuel through the head to the injectors.

So this also suggests to me that the problem is electrical.

Ideas?

Originally Posted by Tins

Long shot, but make sure you haven't crimped or otherwise compromised the wires going to the CAS. I did that on mine.

Hmm, "otherwise compromised" That's a nice way of putting it.