ECU dead after head repair

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Originally Posted by Seagoat

Hoping to organising a group of local D2 owners to collectively buy a shared Nanocom. If the ECU is dead, there's nothing to read.

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Have you done the purge cycle and cleaned the contacts?

Point taken about garage not having required software to read, however garage is a major diesel service centre for the region and they service/repair all sorts of vehicles, including 4WDs and have worked on D2s for other locals.- btw the local Byron garage that works on Landrover informed me when I called them, that they don't work with D2s anymore because they're too annoying, which cracked me up.Having said that, on Tuesday I'll travel over to the vehicle and will perform the required procedure to clear air from the fuel system in order to start it. A local D2 owner suggested version of the same thing this afternoon.Thanks everybody for helping with this problem, its greatly appreciated.

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Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

Might be wrong but does the 5 pump for the fuel work only on 15p motors as i tried 10p motors and it doesn't work

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Worked fine on a 10P Engine with a rechipped ECU one month ago after fuel pump replacement. Have used the same method many times in the past on my original D2 TD5 with10P engine.

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Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

Might be wrong but does the 5 pump for the fuel work only on 15p motors as i tried 10p motors and it doesn't work

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It worked just fine on mine and all other(many) 10Ps i've seen except one which had an ECU problem

I had the same problem when I put a second hand engine in.

It took a lot of cranking sessions of about 20 seconds each, with large gaps between to allow starter motor to cool and I put charger on the battery between attempts.

It eventually went. Here is a link to the thread about mime. if you wish to have a look.

Help. Engine Wont Start

Previously has the same issue after head and injector seal replacement, motor wound over but no start. I was advised maybe battery was down on cranking amps. Something to do with ECU needing so many volts to kick in. ( Not sure if this is right?) Any way changed out battery and off she went. As per previous advise once it starts firing back off to half throttle and let it clear its self of air.

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

It worked just fine on mine and all other(many) 10Ps i've seen except one which had an ECU problem

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Ok I have tried 15 10ps all don't do it, but it's a good feature

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Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

Ok I have tried 15 10ps all don't do it, but it's a good feature

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You don't need to do it in panic mode either, turn ignition to on position so idiot lights are on and press 5 FULL accelerator strokes in a steady rhythm, I do the 1 australia 2 australia thingy. Then the engine light starts flashing and the fuel pump goes through the purge cycle. When that finishes push pedal to the metal and wind over while holding pedal down then as stated back off to half way when it starts firing.

I found that the 5 press auto purge followed by starting with foot flat gave best chances of starting without getting frustrated repeating procedures.

Put battery on charge before purging i.e. when you disconnect it to start working on head/fuel system.

Mine is 10p.

Also find when running out of diesel and topping up with jerry can the foot flat to floor while turning over is sufficient, only really need the 5 press purge when the FPR is played with.

I tinker a lot I just don't bother writing it up here, I don't know why it hasn't worked for you over so many engines.

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Originally Posted by johnp38

You don't need to do it in panic mode either, turn ignition to on position so idiot lights are on and press 5 FULL accelerator strokes in a steady rhythm, I do the 1 australia 2 australia thingy. Then the engine light starts flashing and the fuel pump goes through the purge cycle. When that finishes push pedal to the metal and wind over while holding pedal down then as stated back off to half way when it starts firing.

I found that the 5 press auto purge followed by starting with foot flat gave best chances of starting without getting frustrated repeating procedures.

Put battery on charge before purging i.e. when you disconnect it to start working on head/fuel system.

Mine is 10p.

Also find when running out of diesel and topping up with jerry can the foot flat to floor while turning over is sufficient, only really need the 5 press purge when the FPR is played with.

I tinker a lot I just don't bother writing it up here, I don't know why it hasn't worked for you over so many engines.

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Thanks, I use it on my 15p td5 works but 10p doesn't for me oh well

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Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

Thanks, I use it on my 15p td5 works but 10p doesn't for me oh well

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I'm guessing the 10p - EU2, is tuned?

It is possible someone has turned the bleed feature off, it would be accidental if they have.