Thread: Won't go over 60km/h

If you remove the pump compare it to the other cos there are cases when suppliers are selling defender pumps as being for D2 cos in theyr's mind if it's Td5 it's the same but it's not, the defender pump is a bit shorter and the sender has different travel which can mix up the gauge

Originally Posted by slug_burner

Noisy, the system is still able to pull fuel from the tank even with a faulty pump. It is the cam on the injectors that generate the pressure to spray the diesel in the cylinders. It is just that without a fuel pump the system can’t cope with larger volumes of fuel demand. Usually it will drive along at dirt road speeds but when on the paved roads the system can’t cope with the additional demand. In neutral the engine can rev as it can do it with little fuel.

The faulty pump actually acts as a restriction, I had a TD5 with an external in line pump and fuel line (long story), the pump became noisy so I'd switch it off once it had primed the injectors and they'd actually pull enough fuel to get a speeding fine on a freeway. It would just take a bit of time to achieve the rev's, I found the car was actually quite fun to drive in the burbs as I had to gear down to keep the rev's up to keep a decent speed thru corners, roundabouts, etc.

Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Hello Noisy,

I feel your pain Noisy. My Commodore had issues starting when the fuel tank got on the 1/4 full or below. I bought a new complete fuel module pump - sender -float. Starting issues solved. However, instead of the new pump reading a 1/4 on the fuel gauge it tries to bend the needle on the full mark. I have a replacement fuel module being sent to me. Once it arrives it means dropping the fuel tank again. The parts supplier reckons the fuel sender reading incorrectly is an extremely rare event. I learnt the possibility from a buyer off eBay when I was looking for an answer to my car's gauge reading. Then yours makes 3. Currently the replacement fuel module must be tied to a snail with directional issues. Two weeks since I ordered the replacement and not even a tracking number yet!

I will be fitting and testing the new fuel module before I raise the tank back up. I still have the old fuel sender that was one of the most accurate I have ever had on a vehicle that I own.

Kind regards
Lionel

If it has a float and arm like a TD5, the arm might be bent?

So been a few weeks and car runs amazing, but its now caused a new problem or maybe revealed one that was being masked by the faulty pump. Its has a huge lag/flat spot at about 1800-2000rpm. Foot down nothing for a few seconds them bam full power. I unplugged the maf and no difference. Went for a drive just then and watched the live feed, at idle airflow is 32-35g/s and full flat to the floor is max 250g/s, Turbo boost never went above .90 bar. Reading the forums its seems its safe to assume the maf is faulty, but would just like to double check, also the egr is still in place if that makes a difference to the figures. I checked fuse 2, checked all the wiring, checked all the pipes. It has just had a full service, new fuel filter, oil, air filter.

Other than that the car is better then its ever been.

Originally Posted by Noisy

So been a few weeks and car runs amazing, but its now caused a new problem or maybe revealed one that was being masked by the faulty pump. Its has a huge lag/flat spot at about 1800-2000rpm. Foot down nothing for a few seconds them bam full power. I unplugged the maf and no difference. Went for a drive just then and watched the live feed, at idle airflow is 32-35g/s and full flat to the floor is max 250g/s, Turbo boost never went above .90 bar. Reading the forums its seems its safe to assume the maf is faulty, but would just like to double check, also the egr is still in place if that makes a difference to the figures. I checked fuse 2, checked all the wiring, checked all the pipes. It has just had a full service, new fuel filter, oil, air filter.

Other than that the car is better then its ever been.

Can you post a log up?

Originally Posted by shack

Can you post a log up?

Sorry for the delay I am in the process of selling my house.

Here is the logs. Did a drive to bunnings so all town driving, lights ect where this problem occurs.

Hopefully you can find something. Also do those maf values look correct as i believe it to be not right, idle is meant to be around 50-60 for a working maf.

TEST3.CSV

Originally Posted by Noisy

Sorry for the delay I am in the process of selling my house.

Here is the logs. Did a drive to bunnings so all town driving, lights ect where this problem occurs.

Hopefully you can find something. Also do those maf values look correct as i believe it to be not right, idle is meant to be around 50-60 for a working maf.

TEST3.CSV

Yeah that Maf is cactus.

I can't remember all the specs of the car, but if it's an EU3 you'd be best running with the MAF unplugged until you get a new one.

Ok i was pretty sure it was dead, from my understanding should idle at 50-60g/s and hit 600ish at 3000 rpm. Also when i unplugged the maf for testing it never cured the problem but a few post i have read on various forums suggested that this could be normal, and once a new maf was installed it rectified it straight away.