Thread: Waste gate actuater from external compressed air.

That sounds exactly like clutch switch, I know you said it was ok...

Did the MSB do it as well?

Originally Posted by shack

That sounds exactly like clutch switch, I know you said it was ok...

Did the MSB do it as well?

Yep, Msb did it as well.

I'll bleed the clutch again - the master and slave are brand new, but yeah They're not the best even then.
The clutch switch does work, confirmed many times, but been hydraulic pressure activated it will also have speed limitations.

Was thinking about placing a sensor on the clutch pedal lever to replace the stock hydraulic switch. I reckon this will help as well.

Cheers

Originally Posted by Discosux

Yep, Msb did it as well.

I'll bleed the clutch again - the master and slave are brand new, but yeah They're not the best even then.
Was also thinking about placing a sensor on the clutch pedal lever to replace the stock hydraulic switch. They do take a bit of travel to come on.

Will a nanocom check the switch?

If so, check it with that.

The other thing would be to dab the brake pedal when you lift off, that should also cancel flare and let you work out what's going on.

Also using the clutch should cancel cruise control.

Originally Posted by shack

Will a nanocom check the switch?

If so, check it with that.

The other thing would be to dab the brake pedal when you lift off, that should also cancel flare and let you work out what's going on.

Also using the clutch should cancel cruise control.

Yep, Nanocom and cruise, confirmed working.

It could also be the actuator?
All this below was done pre tune on the msb...

I can set the boost to say 20psi with the modulator bypassed
she'll hold 20psi no problems - never go over

When I reconnect the modulator, she'll boost to say 25 <- for a bit then come down to 20 under full ecu control. It's like the ECU will allow overboost for short periods. I had an analogue boost gauge fitted, you could see the ecu thinking, as in you could see the distinct pressure control steps.
Either it was on purpose or the ECU modulator control / or the actuator is a bit sluggish. I don't know

Seems that you blamed everything except the main suspect here which is the modulator. As long as runs OK with it bypassed and you have problems with it connected that's the first thing to rule out(or the attached pipework)

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Seems that you blamed everything except the main suspect here which is the modulator. As long as runs OK with it bypassed and you have problems with it connected that's the first thing to rule out(or the attached pipework)

thinking about it, i reckon you're right. not the modulator (tried two different ones) it could very well be the plumbing to it.
I'll replace the lines if not that, ill replace the modulator with a different unit that can handle more flow and switch quicker. (ARB solenoid? Maybe)

I cant be the only bloke with this problem. (something my psych nurse says sometimes, but still relevant here.)