Thread: PLEASE HELP - Im now stumped. Disco 2 TD5 won't start

I haven't played with the D2 for a long time but from memory this sounds very similar to when I had issues with the injector seals. Think it is the copper washers that seat against the injector.
I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will chime in soon.
Cheers Bulletman

One way valve on the fuel filter?

I'd check this for sure

Originally Posted by Kingfordy

Hello,

I own a 2001 Discovery 2 TD5. The last few weeks i have been having some issues all of a sudden. Started off with hard starts. Once started had no issues, until I was on a decent drive to work. Driving at 110km/h for most of the trip, i slowed down for roadworks. All of a sudden it conked out and i had to pull over to side of road. Car restarted after a few purges of the fuel pump and cranks. No issues after that. Until i was driving back home, same thing happened. After doing some research, the crank angle sensor was always brought up.

I changed the crank angle sensor, then the car started perfectly and was driving great.... for 2 days. I went for a drive on Saturday, car started good. No issues driving, until i was speeding up for a 60km/h zone to an 100km/h zone on a slight incline. Accelerated, revs went up. All of a sudden revs plummeted and i came to a slow rolling stop on the side of the road.

What i have done so far:

• Checked ECU plug for oil. Look fine, i had recently cleaned it out anyway
• Changed the battery, as i had it tested and was shot. (new one is a 1000cca)
• Crank angle sensor has just been changed
• I have checked earth cable to chassis and battery terminal (All lights come on as normal)
• I have check inertia switch ( i can hear fuel pump so power isn't cut out)
• Injector harness has been changed within the last year
• Checked all fuses - cant see any blown (haven't checked relays)
• Last service. i have cleaned out intercooler, changed turbo pipes and air pipes.
• Fuel filter was changed about 2 weeks ago

What i have noticed:

• I can hear fuel pump - although it just doesn't sound like it used to. I disconnected fuel lines and turned it on, it is pumping fuel. However, i'm not sure how strong it should be pumping. Kind of sounds like there may be air in it?
• No smoke when trying to start - unless i have gone through a few fuel purge cycles and have accelerator to floor trying to start
• After a while, the engine sounds like it is really trying to start, but just doesn't kick

Unfortunately, i do not have a Nanocom. I WISH I DID. So i am unable to see if there are codes.

PLEASE - Any information on possible causes, or what i could look at will be greatly appreciated.

Kind regards,

Kingfordy

Edit: I posted this whilst others were replying, so sorry for the double up.. But I will leave here as it has a bit more info!

It's most likely injector washers, when they let go exhaust gases get into the fuel in the head and cause most of the issues you are having.

A sure fire way of telling is if you can hear the pump Cavitating, after a few purge cycles the noise will settle down, the car will start and be ok.

Then after driving and turning off the same will be required again.

If it is the washers and they get bad enough, the engine will actually stall when driving along, but can usually be resurrected with a few purge cycles.

Flying blind without a diag tool of course, but that would be a good place to start.

Thank you for the messages so far! I will have a suss out on all these item listed so far.

I currently have new washers and o-rings for in the injectors. I have just been worried about doing this and damaging the injectors as the yare incredibly expensive.

Where is the one way valve located on the fuel system?

THANKS again for the information so far.

BTW i am located in south Tasmania, so IF anyone happens to see this post and be located within this area who has a Nanocom.. I would greatly appreciate a message.

Originally Posted by Kingfordy

Thank you for the messages so far! I will have a suss out on all these item listed so far.

I currently have new washers and o-rings for in the injectors. I have just been worried about doing this and damaging the injectors as the yare incredibly expensive.

Where is the one way valve located on the fuel system?

THANKS again for the information so far.

BTW i am located in south Tasmania, so IF anyone happens to see this post and be located within this area who has a Nanocom.. I would greatly appreciate a message.

On the back rear fitting of the filter housing, a little plastic insert.
Fuel Filter - Td5 - Find Land Rover parts at LR Workshop

Apparently it's a good thing to rip it out and place in bin. I haven't done mine yet. Had a mate who spent Thousands getting her Defender towed (way out bush) and diagnosed / fixed because of this little bugger.

Most likely it's the washers as other smarter people have suggested, but this (valve ) is a 10 minute check and or delete.

I wouldn't worry about damaging the injectors, don't be a Gorilla though. I levered mine out with a 5mm allen key and a 6mm key as a backing base.

Originally Posted by Kingfordy

...

• I can hear fuel pump - although it just doesn't sound like it used to. I disconnected fuel lines and turned it on, it is pumping fuel. However, i'm not sure how strong it should be pumping. Kind of sounds like there may be air in it?

Hi, do a simple test as described here: Disco 2 - Check Td5 fuel pump HP | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum if it's OK replace the air bleed valve in the rear wheel side port of the filter head(WJN500110) ... that one can confirm if the injector copper washers are leaking if it looks like that
1075.jpg

Originally Posted by Discosux

On the back rear fitting of the filter housing, a little plastic insert.
Fuel Filter - Td5 - Find Land Rover parts at LR Workshop

Apparently it's a good thing to rip it out and place in bin. I haven't done mine yet. Had a mate who spent Thousands getting her Defender towed (way out bush) and diagnosed / fixed because of this little bugger.

Most likely it's the washers as other smarter people have suggested, but this (valve ) is a 10 minute check and or delete.

I wouldn't worry about damaging the injectors, don't be a Gorilla though. I levered mine out with a 5mm allen key and a 6mm key as a backing base.

I assume you're just talking about about the black plastic insert that looks like an irrigation joiner rather than the brown rubber one-way valve that is presumably essential? I can't really see how the black plastic insert could cause problems apart from maybe getting clogged which could be cleared? The rubber valve presumably deteriorates with time and is a cheap part to replace.

Originally Posted by feraldisco

I assume you're just talking about about the black plastic insert that looks like an irrigation joiner rather than the brown rubber one-way valve that is presumably essential? I can't really see how the black plastic insert could cause problems apart from maybe getting clogged which could be cleared? The rubber valve presumably deteriorates with time and is a cheap part to replace.

My bad,
I did some googling -
The plastic insert is an air bleed, this is maybe needed?
The rubber thing is the non return - Only fitted to later models? probably safe to turf?