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Thread: Alternator Advice

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    it's about luck too.
    You got that right. That also applies if you bought a genuine. could easily fail 6 months out of warranty.

    I just feel that luck goes more in my favor if I try and buy reasonable quality, not Chinese ebay junk.

    The trick is trying to get value for money. If I can get 80% of genuine quality for $500, I would rather this than a $200 one, not knowing if it will get me to the shops and back.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  2. #12
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    The alternator on my D2a was also giving me an intermitant charge and all I had to do was to replace the worn out brushes in it to make it work perfectly again.

    220K on a set of brushes will see them worn down to stubs.
    It only takes about an hour (less for the more skilfull) to remove the alternator and inspect the brushes, I would start there before selling another kidney.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    The alternator on my D2a was also giving me an intermitant charge and all I had to do was to replace the worn out brushes in it to make it work perfectly again.

    220K on a set of brushes will see them worn down to stubs.
    It only takes about an hour (less for the more skilfull) to remove the alternator and inspect the brushes, I would start there before selling another kidney.
    I'm a big believer in rebuilding, but I've been caught a couple times with these alternators.

    New reg which comes with brushes.

    Then the rectifier died not long after, then the slip rings were tired and the bearings needed doing, and the seal on the vac pump looked dodgy... On and on it goes and you have got yourself a mostly new alternator for only $600.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    I'm a big believer in rebuilding, but I've been caught a couple times with these alternators.

    New reg which comes with brushes.

    Then the rectifier died not long after, then the slip rings were tired and the bearings needed doing, and the seal on the vac pump looked dodgy... On and on it goes and you have got yourself a mostly new alternator for only $600.
    You can get the brushes on their own without having to buy an entire "Kit" and they cost about $15 and need to be soldered in.
    IF the brushes are worn down isn't it worthwhile taking a "Punt" at a $15 fix.
    I bought a replacement alternator for my D2a V8 But the brushes arrived before the replacement alternator so I fitted the brushes.
    I drove another 70K on the brush replacements without ANY issues whatsoever, The Replacement alternator is still sitting on a shelf in my shed.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

  5. #15
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    If you want to buy one 'in person' ... there's a mob called Auto8 up in Wangaratta.
    They have OEX branded alternators .. current price on ebay is $583, but if you call them directly or go in person, I reckon they'll do it a tad cheaper than that .. ie. bypassing ebays' fees.

    I have OEX in my Tdi, and other than my stuff up it's been good for the past 5 years.

    OEX is an Ashdown Ingram product, and I doubt very much they make them themselves, I reckon they use name brand stuff restickered for their purposes.

    FWIW: the OEX part number is DXA4002.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    You got that right. That also applies if you bought a genuine. could easily fail 6 months out of warranty.

    I just feel that luck goes more in my favor if I try and buy reasonable quality, not Chinese ebay junk.

    The trick is trying to get value for money. If I can get 80% of genuine quality for $500, I would rather this than a $200 one, not knowing if it will get me to the shops and back.
    You should have more than a fair chance with the Denso, I have been using them for quite a few years without a hitch.

    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    You can get the brushes on their own without having to buy an entire "Kit" and they cost about $15 and need to be soldered in.
    IF the brushes are worn down isn't it worthwhile taking a "Punt" at a $15 fix.
    I bought a replacement alternator for my D2a V8 But the brushes arrived before the replacement alternator so I fitted the brushes.
    I drove another 70K on the brush replacements without ANY issues whatsoever, The Replacement alternator is still sitting on a shelf in my shed.
    Bit of a difference "taking a punt" with an easy to get to Bosch alternator on the V8, and the Denso unit on the TD5 .
    Also worth mentioning that by the time it has done 10-15 years and 200-300 000k's, the vacuum pump along with other previously mentioned items, is starting to get tired, the new units come complete with those and the improvement in braking assist is usually noticeable.

    Also worth a mention is the D3 and D4 units are now a "maintenance item" that , because of cheaper manufacturing along with cheaper Diodes, usually only last 160-200 000k's at which time they can have a major meltdown, often taking out the battery in the process

  7. #17
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    So would you recommend a brand new Denso before a big trip?

    Mine is original in my 2003 D2a, 346,000km with new brushes only installed a few year’s ago.

    Cheers
    Simon

    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    ……Also worth mentioning that by the time it has done 10-15 years and 200-300 000k's, the vacuum pump along with other previously mentioned items, is starting to get tired, the new units come complete with those and the improvement in braking assist is usually noticeable.

    Also worth a mention is the D3 and D4 units are now a "maintenance item" that , because of cheaper manufacturing along with cheaper Diodes, usually only last 160-200 000k's at which time they can have a major meltdown, often taking out the battery in the process
    Cheers

    Simon
    2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonmelb View Post
    So would you recommend a brand new Denso before a big trip?

    Cheers
    Simon
    I would if it was mine, better to fit it before you go rather than have it go before you fit it.

    It'll give you a chance to check the other pulleys as well as not having to worry about it on your trip

  9. #19
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    After weighing up every ones advice, I think I will pull the trigger on a new Denso.

    Even if what Sierrafery said in post number 6 is correct, I think the Denso is probably still the best bet, apart form a genuine, which price wise is not an option.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  10. #20
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    I just bought a Denso for my d2a td5 $450 to my door, trade prices

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