Thread: D2 auto trans repair/replacement

Tackled the valve body today.

The central casting of the body doesn’t have any valves in it, but does have a bunch of little orifice cups and some check balls.









The manual shows where they all go but in hindsight I would print out the pages of the manual and tape the cups to the respective positions on the drawings, as it’s not easy to distinguish between a eg a 32 thou orifice and a 38 thou one.

Used the assemblee goo to hold them in place for reassembly



The control valve bodies attach to the main plate and have the solenoids and spool valves etc in them.

This is the largest one, there are 3 smaller ones.

Disassembled :




Cleaned and ready to go back together.



It’s not difficult - you just have to be methodical and keep everything in order.
Also helps to take lots of photos as it comes apart and already have all the manuals etc downloaded - particularly when you accidentally get hold of the edge of the paper towel picking up a tool and all the carefully laid out bits rolls together

Finally all back together. Bolts are only done up finger tight so it can still move slightly to align when it gets bolted to the transmission case.



Steve

About to order parts from Ashcrofts. Did you have to pay import duty on your order?

Keep it under $1000 for the goods and you don’t get any import charges.
Over $1000 for the goods and the import charges are based on the total goods + freight value AFAIK.

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

Keep it under $1000 for the goods and you don’t get any import charges.
Over $1000 for the goods and the import charges are based on the total goods + freight value AFAIK.

Steve

That’s been removed now. You can be hit for any value. It’s luck of the draw.

Originally Posted by Tombie

That’s been removed now. You can be hit for any value. It’s luck of the draw.

Interesting.
The $1000 limit is still listed on the border force website: Buying online

Steve

Dodgy method of checking the end float once assembled - but it works.
The screwdriver is so I could get a grip on the shaft to lift it.



Steve

Whats the general recommendation on flushing the cooler? Is it worth doing or do they really not collect anything inside.

If it should be done - whats the most practical way? Can it be done in-situ or is it really a removal job?

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

Whats the general recommendation on flushing the cooler? Is it worth doing or do they really not collect anything inside.

Given what you found in the pan is also going to be in the cooler and lines, it sounds like a good idea.

This is personal opinion only based on servicing. I've never had to replace a lunched trans :

Given the magnitude of rebuilding the trans I'd be flushing the lines and replacing the cooler. If you have to flush the cooler I'd be looking at pulling it out, a good soak in whatever solvents you have to hand that will work and then multiple solvent / compressed air flushes until a rag held up to the discharge remains clean after each flush and blow.

I have a little 1L pressure flush gun for jobs like this.