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Thread: 3 Amigos wiring

  1. #1
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    3 Amigos wiring

    Hi all - yes another one LOL

    my Nanocom has come back with

    06-05
    front right sensor electrical failure 006 times
    Now before anyone askes I'll preface this with yes I've Replaced virtually the entire braking system -master, abs unit, shuttle valve and cheat, front hubs and sensors several times (note to self dont buy cheap ebay rubbish lol)
    So, what's happened this time is that I replaced the front right sensor, did the left one not long ago. but the Anderson style plug that the lead plugs into in the main harness literally crumbled in my hand. So I've cut them off as I couldn't find a replacement had to add a short length of cable and hard wire it in. Speaking with the rover guys in bentley they have suggested going on here and do a search on this as there is apparently a pictorial about doig a hard wire direct from the slab's unit to the sensor as the firewall connection is a known issue also
    Despite my many searches I've not found anything
    Anyone help?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozie View Post
    Hi all - yes another one LOL

    my Nanocom has come back with

    06-05
    front right sensor electrical failure 006 times
    Now before anyone askes I'll preface this with yes I've Replaced virtually the entire braking system -master, abs unit, shuttle valve and cheat, front hubs and sensors several times (note to self dont buy cheap ebay rubbish lol)
    So, what's happened this time is that I replaced the front right sensor, did the left one not long ago. but the Anderson style plug that the lead plugs into in the main harness literally crumbled in my hand. So I've cut them off as I couldn't find a replacement had to add a short length of cable and hard wire it in. Speaking with the rover guys in bentley they have suggested going on here and do a search on this as there is apparently a pictorial about doig a hard wire direct from the slab's unit to the sensor as the firewall connection is a known issue also
    Despite my many searches I've not found anything
    Anyone help?
    When you clear the fault, does it come back straight away when stationary? Or only after you have started moving?

    Cheers
    James

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozie View Post
    So I've cut them off as I couldn't find a replacement had to add a short length of cable and hard wire it in.
    Shack knows more about this stuff than I probably ever will, so I'll just say that I have heard, anecdotally, that doing what you say can cause issues. As I say, anecdotal. I have never experienced it.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Shack knows more about this stuff than I probably ever will,
    Dunno about that! I probably know less than you realise....

    However it would be good to locate for sure the actual cause, hence my earlier questions.

    On another related note, I've mentioned it before but will mention again.. The later SLABS unit definitely has more relaxed ABS fault reporting and is probably worth fitting of your are having unresolved issues.

    I know it's probably a bit of a "parts cannon" style thing, which I'm normally against, but they are a bit of an improvement, so possibly worth doing anyway.

  5. #5
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    Mine is a late 2002 and has a 16P and NNN ecu so something of a D2 1/2
    Apparently the original owner was annoyed because the D2a facelift model came out just a month after his purchase -

    amigo's come vitually straight back on whilst stationary

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    The later SLABS unit definitely has more relaxed ABS fault reporting and is probably worth fitting of your are having unresolved issues.

    I know it's probably a bit of a "parts cannon" style thing, which I'm normally against, but they are a bit of an improvement, so possibly worth doing anyway.
    I guess I'll be throwing out my spare then...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozie View Post
    Mine is a late 2002 and has a 16P and NNN ecu so something of a D2 1/2
    Best of both worlds.. Most of the good bits but still with decent lights. IMO.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozie View Post
    Hi all - yes another one LOL

    my Nanocom has come back with

    06-05
    front right sensor electrical failure 006 times
    Now before anyone askes I'll preface this with yes I've Replaced virtually the entire braking system -master, abs unit, shuttle valve and cheat, front hubs and sensors several times (note to self dont buy cheap ebay rubbish lol)
    So, what's happened this time is that I replaced the front right sensor, did the left one not long ago. but the Anderson style plug that the lead plugs into in the main harness literally crumbled in my hand. So I've cut them off as I couldn't find a replacement had to add a short length of cable and hard wire it in. Speaking with the rover guys in bentley they have suggested going on here and do a search on this as there is apparently a pictorial about doig a hard wire direct from the slab's unit to the sensor as the firewall connection is a known issue also
    Despite my many searches I've not found anything
    Anyone help?
    Hi, if you hardwired the sensor and you still have that fault set nanocom to inputs and see stationary values, they all have to be between 2.0 - 2.3V as the system to pass the self test, if one of them is out of that range there is the problem despite of the fault code cos there are several cases when nanocom reports wrongly a sensor fault position while the faulty sensor is other but the live inputs are always correct. I dont recommend the hardwired method cos you'll have to work at the ECU plug each time you change the sensor and you can't use the sensors which are coming with new hubs, my vehicle was fitted with the SSW500020 long lead sensors to ECU on the front when i bought it and i converted it to the plug in type but if you insist to use long lead sensors see this(neglect that it's about LHD cos it's the same thing for RHD too) http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkow...ay_harness.pdf
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    Hi, if you hardwired the sensor and you still have that fault set nanocom to inputs and see stationary values, they all have to be between 2.0 - 2.3V as the system to pass the self test, if one of them is out of that range there is the problem despite of the fault code cos there are several cases when nanocom reports wrongly a sensor fault position while the faulty sensor is other but the live inputs are always correct. I dont recommend the hardwired method cos you'll have to work at the ECU plug each time you change the sensor and you can't use the sensors which are coming with new hubs, my vehicle was fitted with the SSW500020 long lead sensors to ECU on the front when i bought it and i converted it to the plug in type but if you insist to use long lead sensors see this(neglect that it's about LHD cos it's the same thing for RHD too) http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkow...ay_harness.pdf
    Mmm checked with the nanocom and both RH front and RH rear are coming up 0

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozie View Post
    Mmm checked with the nanocom and both RH front and RH rear are coming up 0
    then you'll have to get the the SLABS ECU plug and measure resistance across the relevant pins, C0505 - 4/5(RH front) and 3/6 (RH rear) if you get open circuit you'll have to check the sensor's resistance in it's plug and if that's OK(between 950-1100 ohm) there is a wiring issue somewhere, if the sensor is open it's obvious to replace it but if you get that resistance in the ECU plug then the ECU is fubar
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    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

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