My fix was pretty cheap!
Had all the stuff, it was really just a quick fix that I forgot I'd done, and Nek Minit..a couple years and 100k km have gone... woops!!
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Yes! they do have a reputation for letting go. So, if one or both of your crimp connections look like the top right one in this pic - ACT NOW!
These are my cooler lines that I removed yesterday.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e629a8e877.jpg
Thanks for posting onebob, I checked mine and one had moved slightly, I decided to use a couple of hose clamps and a stainless zip tie to hold things together (sounds a lot more back yardish than what it actually is) like they do on race cars etc, basically the zip tie is bent around the 2 hose clamps and stops the hose blowing off the fitting (I know racecars use special tie wire but I don't have any..)
I also repaired the cooler lines, I had some JIC fittings (similar to AN) and got hold of some Parker Push Lok hose, this is rated for 400psi and 150C so I figure if this lets go I've probably got other things to worry about.
cheers
Redd
Difficult, but doable. No, it's the one at the top ( of course! ), you'll find it easier if you drop the XYZ switch, and the CAT if it has one. I highly recommend getting a crow's foot spanner ( 18mm IIRC ) as it's a bugger to get tight without one. New O rings. Oh, and don't do what I did on the side of the road, in the dark, and leave the old O ring in or you'll be doing it again :censored:
I tried to use a S/H pipe I had at first, but it was bent a bit and fouled the front prop shaft. There is a tiny bolt holding one of the clips to the front of the engine. Try not to drop it :wallbash:
I'm with you in spirit....
Attachment 183736
Attachment 183737
GOSS 12.7mm ID Trans hose rated at 145 psi and 125 Celsius working specs.
225 km travelled since done other day, I think it will be fine.
I have not been able to find any data in the manuals as yet on 4hp22/24 cooler line pressure even in the beemer ones I have read.
My local Pirtek wasn't helpful while trying to be, so gave up as their pricing to braze fittings and supply hose was near on price of 2 new oem lines.
This will do for now and later I may change (as money permits or forced by failure) to larger aftermarket cooler with AN fittings all round.
Used Pirtek down here in Yarraville to put screw fittings on my cooler lines and make up hoses to attach to the P38 cooler which also had screw fittings of course, these if my memories is correct were only about $300 with extra 90 degree fittings as well.
Fittings insitu
Attachment 183777Attachment 183778
Fittings for the Cooler Side
Attachment 183775
Mod to fit the P38 Cooler
Attachment 183776
Old Hoses
Attachment 183779Attachment 183780
Thanks for that pirtek pic, something to show my local mob as the fittings and hose he was showing me was twice the size and too chunky.
Yep I even went back second time with trans lines in hand, but same guy out front and I think I should have been speaking to the guys that do the work.
Did end up looking at jic/an style in sales area but was over the talking and went off to do it with hose and clamps .
One other thing I specified re the lines as well as being high pressure was a bit of extra length which thankfully they did as the lines did not 'bend' as well hence the 90 degree joints as well which I went back for.
Funny thing, the first P38 cooler I got from a wreckers in Sydney was surprisingly actually the same size as the standard D2 but had the screw fittings but as I wanted the extra cooling went and ordered a new from from the old dart. Thought i would keep it anyway for development of the D2a and use Slunnies approach to cooling with the second cooler but as I am not going to be doing that with the D2a will probably get rid of it but it is not much use unless someone was going to do the full line change over in my opinion.
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