BUTTOCKS!
Supports have a delivery due on the 29th, day after my op...
Will have a chat with my installer tommorow as to how this goes ahead hopefully be done before I get out of my sling and start driving again.
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BUTTOCKS!
Supports have a delivery due on the 29th, day after my op...
Will have a chat with my installer tommorow as to how this goes ahead hopefully be done before I get out of my sling and start driving again.
A week is a very long time... Due to breaking just three little ribs last weekend, Wed night in hospital, the shoulder op is now postponed for a month!
Today the supports arrived at the doorstep, very very solid
Attachment 190253
Attachment 190254
Can get by waiting for the front prop shaft extension, but am waiting on the oil cooler adaptor from QLD.
Bump.
I have been following this thread with great interest. I have just bumped it back to the front page before it got lost.
It had found it's way to page 3.
Well sorry for not updating, now getting on to 6 weeks post twin rotator cuff surgery which had been put off a month, ahhhhhh 8.5 months of pain prior and then nothing, I mean nothing at all, sure there is discomfort dressing and showering etc but while slung up, no pain whatsoever.
So not a lot to report during this 10 weeks except the installer is coming down this week to look at my table... with all the goodies on there is some showing of the top surface but not much at that. So we are trying to slot it in for next week, I wont be much use but the brother in law is pretty handy with spanners and is looking forward to more work on a Land Rover - had a weekend in his LS1 6.0 80 series in the snow with camping up on Mt Useless, lovely snow, strong winds and around -7C yep great night, then him and mate with supercharged V8 Patrol decided to spray the clouds with a snow flurry mixed with mud!
Of note is that I was shown by a friend with FB access a TD5 8HP from a D4 and not a BMW and big 37+ tyres. Who ever the tuner was, they had modified the engine tune and the communication between the gearbox and ECU as to the torque levels regarding demand and reductions needed for the more modern gearbox design - I suppose one that doesn't slip all the time and gives direct lockup in every gear.
Maybe I have had too much time to think but I was unsure as to the relative measurements after reviewing the photos from the Syncro Gearbox site showing the attachment of the gear box to the engine, Dave from Ashcroft told me that 4HP was 760mm and had to go back and check, yes he did include the bellhousing, so 54mm longer it is.
https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/w..._n-168x300.jpg
https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/w..._n-168x300.jpg
https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/w..._n-168x300.jpg
So a few little hic ups to sort through. Sometimes it's the simplest things that impact, things such as the Deutsch connectors on the wiring harness, simple to get eh? NOOOOO, went to all the majors for them including quite a few shops but all but supercheap had one I needed, and that was a 4 pin whilst the 12 in connector, nope, anyway got them online from RS at more than reasonable prices at around a 1/4 of retail.
Attachment 191124
THis was after the bigger problem connector, had assumed when buying a transmission harness that it would have a connection for the shifter, no.
So ordered the 2nd hand harness for the gearbox after finding it uses a BMW proprietary connector, only to find that the BMW connectors come in two flavours, and of course, I ordered the wrong one that I waited three weeks for, the older F shifters are 7 pin, later F shifters 10 pin, so for a more than reasonable $5 got the BMW 10 pin ordered and picked it up today
So over the ensuing time I have been trying to ensure that I can drive off the ramps without further need to spend time in the workshop. Been waiting on replies from HTG and hopefully the lines of communication are now open as to the connections - it was due to HTG and MWMachines doing this together to why I went with them in the first place - to get the pertinent information as to connections. The harness by the way did not come with the instructions they were purported to have.
So going over the wiring in relation to the diagrams I could find, I am here with my last letter to HTG
Now I have figured that the 4 Pin Deutsch Connector plug is just a common power and wake up.
The Round 8HP is as per the website with 7 wires consisting of 3 power and 4 CAN BUS wires
The 12 pin connector I believe has the following connections (this using the Black wire as number 1 and red wire number 7 when viewed from the rear
1 – Black Wire – Power Negative - 5V Output Negative Power to the Shifter
2 – Blue Wire 1 -
3 – Blue Wire 2 -
4 – Blue Wire 3 -
5 – Orange Wire 1 - Hi CAN Input / Output to ETC
6 – Orange Green Wire - Low CAN Input / Output to ETC
7- Red Wire – Power Positive - 5V Output Positive Power to the Shifter
8 – Blue Wire 4 -
9 – Blue Wire 5 -
10 – Blue Wire 6 -
11- Orange 2 - Hi CAN Input / Output to F Series Shifter
12 - Orange Blue - Low CAN Input / Output to F Series Shifter
I have attached the links for two docs, one the ENGINE ECU (ETC) and two, the Automatic Trans Connector (ATC)
Land Rover Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Discovery II (LT) V8-4.6L (2003) > Transmission and Drivetrain | Transmission Control Systems | Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain | Relays and Modules - A/T | Control Module, A/T | Component Information | Diagrams (workshop-manuals.com)
Lucas TD5 (nanocom-diagnostics.com)
Of which I am thinking would require the following connections to the 12 Input Connector from the wiring harness which goes to the ATC which incorporates outputs from the ETC
Output ETC – PIN 16 - Hi CAN Input / Output to ETC
Output ETC – PIN 44 - Low CAN Input / Output to ETC
Output ETC – PIN 13 – Transmission High/Low Switch
Output ETC – PIN 42 - Gearbox output shaft speed Sensor -VE
Output ETC – PIN 25 – Sport Mode Warning Lamp
Output ETC – PIN 31 – Diagnostics K Line
Output ETC – PIN 42 - Gearbox output shaft speed Sensor +VE
Output ETC – PIN 51 –Manual Mode Warning Lamp
From this harness as well, it would include the following for the 4 input Connector
Output ETC – PIN 6 - EARTH
Output ETC – PIN 26 – Battery Power Supply
Output ETC – PIN 54 - Ignition Power Supply (wake up)
How ever there are differing wires in the harness from the IO CAN to the 12 Input Connector with wires 12, 13, 25 and 26 stated differently in the IO GATEWAY PIC to 11 and 24 although they are all the SAME COLOUR and have no way of knowing which is which when they meet the 12 Input Connector.
REGARDING THE F Series Shifter
I have the 10 Pin Shifter and have purchased the required connector for this, However, the Shifter has two CAN sets of Hi Lo wires which when added to the TD5 CAN makes for three sets that have to go the 12 pin Connector, or, do I just leave CAN2 off????
If I was to fit at a later date, BMW paddle shifts would they be connected to the CAN2???
So with some further information that I gleaned from the web etc.
Attachment 191125
Attachment 191126
Attachment 191129
Attachment 191127
Attachment 191128
Well as documented in the What Happened today, the time to install is coming sooner than later. Failed to get there to the installer as described but this is now happening sooner than later and I am getting excited. Tomorrow after my physio will be the time!
Attachment 191188
So had all the equipment in the car today and it is the first time I have actually put the console in the car for comparision, so the shifter is sitting almost perfectly in the current D position and angling off centre at about 30 degrees is perfect for a swivel at the elbow on armrest, hand on console changing gear - did have the shifter only when deciding on the angle and placement and hope that I have judged the switches for the Winch and Electric Brakes properly. I have not covered it in the woodgrain yet as may be bolting the console to the top of the console rather than to underneath the shifter.
Looking for an oppurtunity to do the ATB and 1.003 install on a seperate exchange LT230 and even may take the D2a rear prop out and get this shortened as well. THis would leave only the oil cooler lines which can not be done unless I run without an auto oil cooler for a couple of trips, maybe just maybe... It is 57k's to the installers and this for all but around 2k's is 80, 100 and 110 so the Auto will be in TC lock up for most of the trip, espeacially if I drive in 3rd in the 80 zones, worth the risk (if it is with max 22C over the next week or so)???
Great meeting this afternoon.
His thoughts are that I am going to have the D2 on the ramps for up to 5 days. Could it be done quicker, yes, but his way of going about such things are on the edge of perfection!
On examination he was happy with the chassis supports and placement and as to the work required to fit these. Of course the supports for the syncro adaptor and LT230 are solid and with the Superpro bushings, optimum.
So rather than using the existing holes for the ACE and SLS, his way is bespoke fixings with holes drilled out through the chassis with crush tubes then welded in, (cleaned and painted etc.) bolts through these. As this is both a support and guard, one at each end of the chassis plate and two (maybe three) between each side.
Could the ACE and SLS holes and one or two others as required suffice (see thumbnails), maybe, but his point is that due to the extreme usage out on the tracks and rocks expected and this is what they do with boxed Truck chassis modifications. Sure it takes longer but at the end of the day will have a more durable support.
So,
- Disconnect Battery and take out Engine ECU
- Remove Gearbox, TC and drive shafts
- Fit new Engine Mounts
- Bolt together the adaptors 8HP and LT230 and measure where the supports are in relation to the Chassis
- Drill mounts and chassis to allow fitment of supports, add crush tubes to chassis and clean etc.
- Remove Torque Convertor from 8hp (just lighter and easier) and bolt assembly to engine (two bolts only)
- Position and locate then spot weld the support brackets on the side plates
- Remove 8HP and chassis plates etc.
- Fully weld support brackets and bolt the chassis plates to the chassis
- fit the torque convertor
- Fit the completed gearbox and LT230 to the engine
- Wire in Electrics
- Complete associated requirements such as filling etc.
The other aspects of the build
- Wiring the existing CANBUS and Power Cables to the HTG harness then plug these into the HTG CANIO
- Cutting of existing Auto Cooling lines and fitting these with AN fittings to first the THermostat and then to the 9HP - will be done at this workshop during the install
- Still looking to do the ATB and 1.003 install in the LT230 and shortening rear shaft before we start.
Then a little cherry, when I told him re the adhesive walnut cover for the Shifter Console, he said absolutely not - As doing old Mercs which all feature wood and inlays, this will be done, properly!!
Finally, we are looking to start in two weeks for completion before Grand Final Weekend.
Well got great news today that a supplier is willing to give me his for sale LT230 and a Driveshaft to be replaced with my units from the D2 when they are removed. Got one reply from a driveshaft repairer at $275, not so great I thought.
So pick it up tomorrow and will be dismantling it and as a precaution will be changing the outputs bearings and seals. If the shafts are an issue will order these from Ashcroft along with planned enlarged sump and the intermediate bush if needed, pretty confident they will arrive in time for the 8HP install.
Interested in your ideas as to the bush for the intermediate shaft if there is no indication of wear, and if there is, where around Melbourne is there someone proficent at doing this task?? To put this into context, it will probably never be a daily driver and would anticipate only a 5-10K kms per year for the next 20 years!
Also on the pic with the new console against the old console in a previous post, the fonts on the shifters are very similar, of course BMW owned LR back in the day...
Also has a good condition plenum cover (inferred he also had a new one) which I am buying. The plan is hit it with plastic conditioner for a good week or so and then cover it with a vinyl film to protect it from the sun and hopefully cracking, ever!
I think AMV do changeover cases, but I'm sure any of the Land Rover independents would be able to do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by RRT
Are putting an Ashcroft ATB in it?
Tony
BTW
This is a great project that I, and I'm sure many others are following with great interest.
So today picked up the LT230 and finding it has 245K's on it, however on taking the whole thing apart it was apparent that the TC has been opened and work done as the whole TC was covered in Silicon sealant. A couple of studs with nuts screwed down on them replaced bolts on the casing ciovers were strange and every thread had at least half of their length done with locktite.
The seals were all fresh, bearings looked good and the whole shebang operated exceptionally smoothly.
The intermediate shaft was seated without leaking and it was perfectly round with no displacement, so will leave it as is. The O ring, though was flatter than the pooh carters hat!
Both of the other shafts were excellent so no need to change either.
The thrust bearings in the diff however were almost rice paper thin, maybe a bit more wear than optimum! However the ATB does not require such fiddling around and replacing.
So will change the Input and Output Bearings as well as all three seals, are they needed maybe not but do not want to open this box up again.
