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Thread: Yet another non start post, seeking help in Geelong

  1. #1
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    Yet another non start post, seeking help in Geelong

    Hi there, after 5+ years of lurking on these forums, including a top and bottom end rebuild on my td5 d2 2002 facelift, I think I'm a bit stuck on my own. Car is 372k with 7k on engine

    I've had intermittent m&s light XYZ switch related issues with my auto d2, fixing This by either restarting the car in N or moving through the gears slower.


    Since the bottom and top end rebuild last year, I've had zero issues, leaking a little power steering fluid and oil, but that's always to be expected. At least it's not drinking water.


    On Tuesday I went to start it up to crank, fired for a second but no start. Tried priming 5+ times still nothing. Started my diagnosis mode and immediately went to the CPS as I didn't replace it and believed it was overdue. No go. Checked the immobiliser, the inertia switch and the wiring loom, as well as oil in the ECU loom. Pulled the rocker cover, injector loom is fine. I did new injector seals myself last year with rebuild. Sounded like a fuel problem (as my fuel pump was super whiny and voltage through 30a fuse was 18.3).
    replaced the pump on Saturday, no fix, but oh well it probably needed doing. Checked the non return valve, poked a hole through it, no start.

    I have two good batteries, both of which are good as last electrical problem I had was the alternator


    Yesterday I changed the fuel filter and the non return valve, primed and still no start. I've tried moving the car through gears as part of my suspected it's the XYZ stopping start. So I've got the car on trickle charge, and will probably pull it and repair to fix the m&s gremlins, but I feel I'm running out of things it could be.

    I'm reaching out to ask if anyone around Geelong has access to a nanocom I could use, I feel if I have access to fault codes it may help me out. Happy to pay cash and or beverages of your choice.

    This forum has been a great help over the years and I'm hoping to do the same once again. Any thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Just to add to this, every fix, especially related to fuel, I've primed the system 10-15 times. There's no air in there

  3. #3
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    PM sent
    2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
    2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
    1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
    1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil

  4. #4
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    If I don't find anyone that'd Bè great

    Thanks RRT this is a brand new account so I can't respond to your PM but I'll take you up on that if no one closer helps out

  5. #5
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    If you fuel pump is super whiny, it could be the pump. Are you getting a strong fuel flow?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  6. #6
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    I've already replaced the fuel pump, and uncoupling the line at the FPR ****es diesel everywhere

  7. #7
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    Is the MIL on? If so then my go to would be the CPS or it's wiring. Even if it isn't I'd still check. Even if it's a little loose it can cause a non start. How did you check it?

    I'm tipping with 7K on the engine the injector harness is ok.

    Can't help with the nano, I'm a little too far away.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourbee View Post
    Hi there, after 5+ years of lurking on these forums, including a top and bottom end rebuild on my td5 d2 2002 facelift, I think I'm a bit stuck on my own. Car is 372k with 7k on engine

    Since the bottom and top end rebuild last year, I've had zero issues, leaking a little power steering fluid and oil, but that's always to be expected. At least it's not drinking water.

    On Tuesday I went to start it up to crank, fired for a second but no start. Tried priming 5+ times still nothing. Started my diagnosis mode and immediately went to the CPS as I didn't replace it and believed it was overdue. No go. Checked the immobiliser, the inertia switch and the wiring loom, as well as oil in the ECU loom. Pulled the rocker cover, injector loom is fine. I did new injector seals myself last year with rebuild. Sounded like a fuel problem (as my fuel pump was super whiny and voltage through 30a fuse was 18.3).
    replaced the pump on Saturday, no fix, but oh well it probably needed doing. Checked the non return valve, poked a hole through it, no start.

    Yesterday I changed the fuel filter and the non return valve, primed and still no start. I've tried moving the car through gears as part of my suspected it's the XYZ stopping start. So I've got the car on trickle charge, and will probably pull it and repair to fix the m&s gremlins, but I feel I'm running out of things it could be.
    If it's cranking and the red light on the dash is on then it's immobiliser related.

    If it's cranking, there's no engine light on and the tacho needle is moving, it's not the CPS.

    If the new pump is still cavitating, even a little, you might need to do the injector washers again ( using OEM or genuine and clean the carbon off thoroughly, especially the head faces ).

    If it's not cavitating, then look at things like the cam timing being out due to loose cam sprocket bolts as I've seen that one after a "rebuild" before.

    Also, it'd be great if you could let us know what it was as most of the time after myself and others post, people that join the forum in order to fix a problem don't get back with the answer. (Not saying you wouldn't, only that most don't)

    P.S. If the D2 is a keeper, get a Nanocom

    cheers

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Is the MIL on? If so then my go to would be the CPS or it's wiring. Even if it isn't I'd still check. Even if it's a little loose it can cause a non start. How did you check it?

    I'm tipping with 7K on the engine the injector harness is ok.

    Can't help with the nano, I'm a little too far away.

    No Mil light on, and I replaced the CPS as well as inspected the break points in the sheath of the wiring, there's no visible copper or fray in the wire.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourbee View Post
    No Mil light on, and I replaced the CPS as well as inspected the break points in the sheath of the wiring, there's no visible copper or fray in the wire.
    Then immobiliser? The inertia switch? I've forgotten if that last one prevents starting or cranking.

    Echo the "get a nanocom" thought. Closest member to you that I know of that might have one is in Willy.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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