Reply With Quotemilky oil means its got water in it
Wizard
SubscriberJacked her up onto axle stands and drained the oil. Couldn’t see anything abnormal. Just the usual amount of fine metal particles on the drain plug magnet and a lot of milky green oil.
I couldn’t turn the wheels, so assume the axles are okay.
I’ll put the centre differential in neutral and try turning the prop shaft. Not sure doing that will tell me much.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
ForumSage
milky oil means its got water in it
RoverLord
pull em to check the internal splines.Originally Posted by Red90
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Wizard
Sounds like the locker is broken. You should be able to turn a wheel forward.
Sucks that it is a Disco 2 as pulling it part is a pain.
Wizard
SubscriberNo matter. I installed it in first place,
so I’ll just put the old diff back in.
I’m not as adventurous as I used to be, so probably won’t miss it.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
Wizard
SubscriberThanks Goingbush, I’m not still driving it, but thanks for the encouragement.
It’s this sort of useless response that must discourage many people from this site.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
Wizard
I would switch to a truetrac or ashfroft atb. They work well with the traction control. The stick diff is really weak so is a recipe to leaving you stranded.
Wizard
SubscriberThat’s my plan. I’ve a TruTrack in the front and works well.
Pulled the Detroit apart today, found many teeth broken off internally.
Original diff is installed back in the housing, dialed in and ready for installation tomorrow.
Not a bad job really. Just a bit smelly. At least I’ll be able to get to work on Monday.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
Wizard
SubscriberJob done, back on the road. Still don’t know what the flange is all about though.
I don’t get many weekends working on the D2 as they are so reliable. Quite enjoyed it.
I know it’s probably only a 4 hour job for the professional, but I like to take my time.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
RoverLord
The flange check is for axle condition,
in the d1/deefer version the axle end at the flange is a weak point, and in about 40% of the diffs I've seen with the symptoms you've described its a stripped spline stepping over that causes the noise. In the later versions early wear in some instances turn up on the inner side of the axle.
as you've got to pull the axles to drop the diff out you can check them first..
The remaining issue thats not the center itself is the CWP stripping out. With the axles out checking the rotation of the input flange will clue you in as to what else might be wrong BUT, if the axles and flanges dont show damage the diagnostics benefit of knowing if its likely to be the center or the CWP setup really only has advantage knowing what to quote the customer.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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