Thread: Auto trans limp mode

No idea on the looms for the Auto, there seems to be a few revisions and wire colours etc changing make it difficult.

Rave is bang on with some stuff, but completely wrong on others.

Even all the Diag stuff for the auto is specific to one revision of software, and trust me.. There's a lot of changes in others, that's why I asked for the revision of your TCU.

so if I bypass 0728/2 to 0193/42 as Sierrafery suggests am I leaving out any key components that may be an issue, ie ecu instrument cluster etc

Originally Posted by thai_tiger

so if I bypass 0728/2 to 0193/42 as Sierrafery suggests am I leaving out any key components that may be an issue, ie ecu instrument cluster etc

Between 728/2 and 193/42 is a hardwired line part of a two wire screened cable which is embeded into the main harness so if you dont get continuity as it is by running a new wire all you do is to restore continuity and if that was the cause of the fault it will be fixed ... if that's the case and the fault is fixed change that wire with a screened one to not have interference in the future

Though the best would be to check with nanocom the output shaft speed input cos if that wire is interrupted it will be zero what ever you do... that's to rule out a diagram inaccuracy which is not impossible cos it's quite unlikely that the wire to be interrupted within that screened cable

it apppears on the 3'rd page of the autobox inputs menu as "output speed", you can compare with the engine speed too as in those instructions

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Between 728/2 and 193/42 is a hardwired line part of a two wire screened cable which is embeded into the main harness so if you dont get continuity as it is by running a new wire all you do is to restore continuity and if that was the cause of the fault it will be fixed ... if that's the case and the fault is fixed change that wire with a screened one to not have interference in the future

Perfect was just about to ask you that same question..... I can see the shielded two wire in the transmission loom, so if is successful I will copy that and run wires accordingly.


I should mention there are two other issues but I dont think related ..... 1/ three amigos are on... 2/ button on key remote to unlock doesn't work so unlock with key

Originally Posted by thai_tiger

..... I can see the shielded two wire in the transmission loom, so if is successful I will copy that and run wires accordingly.


I should mention there are two other issues but I dont think related ..... 1/ three amigos are on... 2/ button on key remote to unlock doesn't work so unlock with key

IMO the part which is in the transmission loom is from 0678 to 0243(orange/pink - orange black wires) not from 0728 to 193(red- black wires) this one you have to trace it backwards from the TCU connector(193) which would not be easy

the amigos and remote issues are unlikely to be related

ok first chance today to have another look.

Made sure what my readings are

Pins 14 to 42 have continuity

C243/E to C193/42. is open circuit

C243/F to C193/14 is open circuit


Bypassed above now have continuity

Connected Nanacom and set live input reading and it shows 0 for output speed rpm and 0 for turbine speed

still holding 1st gear and M&S lights on


If original wire that i have now jumped is short to ground I would still have same problem...yes?

The only big problem can be that the diagram to be wrong or you are confusing something there cos it's very strange, the wires you bypassed were those shielded red and black wires? if yes a short in that cable would keep the fault current



unplug 678/728 to isolate the two circuits and see then across TCU 14 - 42 (unplugged as well) cos it should be open cicuit while with 678/728 connected you must read the resistance of the sensor so very close to the resistance you get across 243 E and F or at 678 across 1 - 2 , watch the part of diagram which i posted at #24 and you should see what i mean so what you get at 243 E - F must be very close the same across TCU 14 - 42 if the circuit is OK

if you get continuity across TCU 14 - 42 with 678/728 unplugged there is a short in that cable so you'll have to cut the original wires both sides near the splicing points of your bypass... all these things are valid if the diagram is accurate and you are working on the correct wires