Thread: Air Springs - best value for money

Originally Posted by RRT

Just a suggestion. dont discount the US when looking for parts, depending on exchange rates have found some sound bargains as to D2 parts. Certainly engine parts unless you have a V8 are not in the picture but anything else, absolutely.

Arnotts as a case in points for airbags may be considered, viable...

Yes, as long as those parts are not LHD exclusive. Some parts are surprisingly priced, but often shipping is prohibitive.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

10 minutes??
I want to see the vid!!

With vehicle on my hoist and suspension hanging, I can change a bag easily in 10 minutes without removing the wheel.

Originally Posted by sierrafery

I'll make a video next time when i'll fit those chinese bags... i have a big 10T crocodile jack which lifts it in 10 seconds then as mr. shack said it's a child's play cos only the genuines have voss connectors which are a bit fiddly, mines are already Dunlops with push fit connectors... i meant 10 minutes a side but in a "competition mode" i feel able to change both in 10 minutes maybe even less cos it's almost the same like changing a bulb

You tried these yet, SF? Now I have my D2 back on the road I'm missing the SLS and would like to reinstate it. Also, do you know how to source and program a remote for ride height? Mine never had that but it would be awesome for trailers.

Originally Posted by sierrafery

I'll make a video next time when i'll fit those chinese bags... i have a big 10T crocodile jack which lifts it in 10 seconds then as mr. shack said it's a child's play cos only the genuines have voss connectors which are a bit fiddly, mines are already Dunlops with push fit connectors... i meant 10 minutes a side but in a "competition mode" i feel able to change both in 10 minutes maybe even less cos it's almost the same like changing a bulb

Is there a part number for these push in connectors?

Originally Posted by Tins

You tried these yet, SF? Now I have my D2 back on the road I'm missing the SLS and would like to reinstate it. Also, do you know how to source and program a remote for ride height? Mine never had that but it would be awesome for trailers.

If you have the earlier remote reciever, they are available in the US for less than half the price of the 433mHz versions. As I was removing my roof liner, sourced the earlier version of the remote reciever and the PLIP from the US.

There is a space on the key programming section on Nanocom which programs this to the system, 4 keys and the PLIP for height. The key comes with the code, just insert or replace the code and it is then operational.

Originally Posted by RRT

If you have the earlier remote reciever, they are available in the US for less than half the price of the 433mHz versions. As I was removing my roof liner, sourced the earlier version of the remote reciever and the PLIP from the US.

There is a space on the key programming section on Nanocom which programs this to the system, 4 keys and the PLIP for height. The key comes with the code, just insert or replace the code and it is then operational.

So, you changed yours to 315Mhz? Mine is 433.

Originally Posted by Tins

1. You tried these yet, SF? Now I have my D2 back on the road I'm missing the SLS and would like to reinstate it.
2. Also, do you know how to source and program a remote for ride height? Mine never had that but it would be awesome for trailers.

1. No, they are still waiting for a bag to fail on the vehicle
2. The last slot in nanocom's key programming menu is for suspension, remotes are available on ebay or other stores but they are expensive... there are some other much cheaper options but it involves a bit of fiddling:
1. see this SLS Suspension Controller kits available :-) | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum which is about this Just a moment...
2. i made myself a quite simple one if you have basic electronics skills which works as well using 4 blocking diodes and a 3 way triple pole on/off/on toggle switch(i fitted te switch near the cigar lighter, with the inflate command upwards off course) see the diagram:
(WHEN THIS SWITCH IS USED THE IGNITION MUST BE OFF)

Originally Posted by Tins

So, you changed yours to 315Mhz? Mine is 433.

That is correct, sure had to change the key as well but combined was less than half the price of a PLIP for the 433 version