Nope. As FNQLR says, the oil switch is just that. On/off. Nanocom can't display what it can't see.
It's relatively easy to fit an oil pressure gauge. I'd do a temp gauge and low coolant alarm while you're at it. LR cheaped out on those as well. TD5 temp gauge only tells you there's something wrong after it's too late, ask me how I know.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
That could probably do it.. Far easier to get at than it looks, but wait until it's at least cool enough to touch. Obviously..
Here's one That's not a recommendation as such, but I've had good service from them.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Just a heads up. If the sender is flickering on idle either do an oil pressure test with a gauge or replace the sender.
In my long life I have replaced/rebuilt 2 engines when it was the sender all along. You cannot imagine the angst after rebuilding a RRC engine to see the oil light come on at idle after new bearings etc only to extinguish with a new sender.
Regards PhilipA
Ha! I've usually approached it the other way, i.e. it's probably the sender.... Cost me a B Series engine to a failed big end. Long time ago, and lesson learned. But the OP says that that's not the behaviour. If it comes on it stays on, no flickering at idle. Prolly not a lack of oil pressure in that case.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I took off the heat shield and there was a very leaky oil pressure switch. Have blocked the hole in the switch with a screw thread and Araldite so I can drive around while I'm waiting for the new one. One of the wires broke, behind the cylinder head so I need to chase that back to where it comes from. Found another manifold stud sheared off. I knew I had one missing so she's a bit sooty round there. What are my chances of getting the stubs out with an easyout? What ****y little studs for an important job. No wonder they fail.
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