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Thread: Fuel Leak

  1. #1
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    Fuel Leak

    Hi, 2.5 TD5 15P. Have a bustpipe, its the one coming from the top of the fuel regulator and runs behind theoil dipstick tube to the front of the cylinder head. You don't seem to be ableto buy this pipe as a separate part but it comes with the regulator (LRO16318).Can you just remove the pipe from the new regulator and fit to the engine? Theregulator is working fine and no leaks so I don't want to to change it. Thepipe is burst where the rubber flexible part crimps to the metal pipe. Hasanybody had this as it appears to be unusual for it to leak where it has.
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ES4 View Post
    Hi, 2.5 TD5 15P. Have a bustpipe, its the one coming from the top of the fuel regulator and runs behind theoil dipstick tube to the front of the cylinder head. You don't seem to be ableto buy this pipe as a separate part but it comes with the regulator (LRO16318).Can you just remove the pipe from the new regulator and fit to the engine? Theregulator is working fine and no leaks so I don't want to to change it. Thepipe is burst where the rubber flexible part crimps to the metal pipe. Hasanybody had this as it appears to be unusual for it to leak where it has.
    Thanks
    I've replaced this hose on mine.
    You can cut the hose out, but cutting into the crimp sections, then remove the hose off the pipes.
    For me, I found it too hard to do the front connector when in place, but also hard to remove the connector out of the head if you don't remove the inlet manifold ... too much work(again, for my liking).

    So I actually cut the pipe at the front, and replaced completely with another pipe.

    Keep in mind, I don't have a dremel type tool, which would have made cutting thee crimps so easy.

    But once you cut the crimps, you can remove the hose, and then replace the hose only with some fuel hose. Has to be fuel rated hose, don't just use any old hose .. like for example water/coolant type hose.

    Use 2x hose clamps at each end to be sure, and you're done.

    Sorry can't remember the size of the hose, but once you have yours out, you can compare yourself. 4 clamps and a small length of hose should cost you next to nothing(maybe 5 pounds or so).

    which reminds me, I need to buy a dremel type tool one day!
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #3
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    As above, but use 3/8" EFI fuel hose (10mm is just a little too loose for my liking) and hose clamps specifically for fuel injection.

    Be very careful when cutting the original crimps, not to cut into the steel pipe.

    Otherwise, yes, you can use the new hose that comes with the regulator, but the front (14mm spanner size) nut will take a while and you will have to make a special tool.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post

    which reminds me, I need to buy a dremel type tool one day!
    They're quite good value as a kit, although these days I would probably go cordless. 'Waukee make one, which isn't cheap but I already have the batts and I'm pretty sure the bits are universal.... Damn, wish I hadn't looked...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    As above, but use 3/8" EFI fuel hose (10mm is just a little too loose for my liking) and hose clamps specifically for fuel injection.

    Be very careful when cutting the original crimps, not to cut into the steel pipe.

    Otherwise, yes, you can use the new hose that comes with the regulator, but the front (14mm spanner size) nut will take a while and you will have to make a special tool.
    When I did mine, as you cut the crimp, it springs open, and a non gorilla type person doing the job should see and feel when the crimp is off, but for sure you don't want to scar the pipe.

    (assuming a spare FPR body is available) For the front pipe end, I just found it easier to cut the pipe to a straight section, use deep socket to remove remaining piece. The quick connect pipe on the FPR body is a nice fit at the front of the head. I used a right angled quick connector with a barbed end at the other, the fuel hose onto the barbed end and done. That annoying front pipe end becomes a thing of the past on that vehicle.
    Did this about 6 or 7 years ago now, so can't remember exactly, but there wasn't a lot of space up the front to easily cut the pipe(ie, too risky to use grinder or hacksaw, and I remember using a small bolt cutter to cut the pipe short and straight to allow the deep socket onto it.

    I don't mind making up tools to get a job done, but seriously stupid is stupid! .. and LR could have much more easily set up that fuel return line to make it easier to work on. But of course they had to make it as stupid and silly a design as possible.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    They're quite good value as a kit, although these days I would probably go cordless. 'Waukee make one, which isn't cheap but I already have the batts and I'm pretty sure the bits are universal.... Damn, wish I hadn't looked...
    only $118 from Ali Express*. I too have the batteries.

    * May not be genuine equipment!
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

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