Just be aware that the gauge's position is a bad joke made by LR...it goes to the middle at 70*C and stays there untill 119*C then at 120 goes to the red so it's technically possible to drive it at 115*C for long without knowing it and that would "tenderise" the engine on a long run.... better fit an additional gauge to see the real coolant temp all the time.
I had a so called "performance" alluminium rad myself(not Allisport) but after about one year i gave it to a friend who has a competition defender and fitted standard Nissens to mine cos i didnt like how the coolant temp behaved with it... the ECT fluctuated too often between 75 and 100 depending on the throttle and engine load(used to tow a boat from time to time) so IMO it went too cool on light throttle which increased the EGT(i have both ECT and EGT gauges) and went up too high quite fast when the engine was forced.... IMO it had too much thermal inertia and so many ECT fluctuations are not good for the fuelling, with the Nissens once it gets to 90 it stays around that value with small fluctuations and i like that more.
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
It is a good question. I would have thought that the larger capacity would have led to more temp stability, once op temp was reached, which would take longer.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
If the thermostat is wide open (engine hot) the water pump will have the coolant roaring around the system.
The coolant needs to stay in the rad long enough for exposure to the ambient air temp to be cooled, so many stock rads have some sort of baffling in the tanks to slow the flow.
Pretty vsure the stock 300 Tdi has this (for example).
DL
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