Thread: TD5 D2 lifting points

Originally Posted by Brooksy106

I took my engine out when the head was off and 99% of the bolt ons. Its now assembled and there was never a rear lifting bracket bolted on the head (had it since new). Is it common for them to be missing? Also I am a bit concerned with lifting the engine from the inlet manifold as there is quite a bit of leverage being applied - the bolts for the lifting bracket have a shearing force. Thanks.

i usually just run a strop behind the flywheel.

Perhaps a chain can be bolted directly to where the lifting bracket goes?

Originally Posted by Brooksy106

I took my engine out when the head was off and 99% of the bolt ons. Its now assembled and there was never a rear lifting bracket bolted on the head (had it since new). Is it common for them to be missing? Also I am a bit concerned with lifting the engine from the inlet manifold as there is quite a bit of leverage being applied - the bolts for the lifting bracket have a shearing force. Thanks.

There will be 2x 8x1.25 threads next to the fuel pressure reg, this is where the lifting bracket was from factory, probably never replaced when the 1st FPR was done, you could make a bracket up

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

i usually just run a strop behind the flywheel.

On a TD5?, not V8.

Originally Posted by discorevy

There will be 2x 8x1.25 threads next to the fuel pressure reg, this is where the lifting bracket was from factory, probably never replaced when the 1st FPR was done, you could make a bracket up



On a TD5?, not V8.

works on pretty much every engine. if your engine has no lifting points at all you can usually get away with doing a single strop with a couple of carefully placed and anchored twists (making something similar to a figure 8) from a centered hook over the vally (v engines) the rockercover (inlines) down to the crank pully and the flywheel or flywheel housing.


hook the eye of the strop onto the cranes hook, go around the back of the engine and under going between the sump and the flywheel(housing) then back to the hook to go forwards. When you make this pass, drop the strop down say the left side of the block but before you go under the sump cross over behind the head and the block so the strop hangs down the right side of the engine, pass it under and back up on the left hand side, cross behind the block and head again then go up the right hand side of the block. when you pull the engine out when viewd from behind this should look like a well deformed figure of 8 with the flywheel(housing) poking through the bottom of the 8 and the cylinder head and rocker cover poking out the top.

The front gets the same treatment. For a series engine and the isuzu I snug the strop under the harmonic balancer and do the cross under the water pump.

In a pinch you can do the job with ratchet straps, lengths of chain (a 200kg comealong to the front is excelent value for getting the angle correct) and in a pinch, doubled up runs of paramata rope.