Thread: Thermostat TD5

I've also broken that bleeding screw! I obviously managed to get what was left of the screw out -- assuming you've also got the plastic bleed screw -- I probably did something like heating up a small flat head screw driver and then pressed it into the plastic for long enough to make an indent/groove, remove and let cool to harden, then screw out using the flat head.

All the best - this is the sort of pain one doesn't need!

Myles

Originally Posted by Campaspe Man

I've also broken that bleeding screw! I obviously managed to get what was left of the screw out -- assuming you've also got the plastic bleed screw -- I probably did something like heating up a small flat head screw driver and then pressed it into the plastic for long enough to make an indent/groove, remove and let cool to harden, then screw out using the flat head.

All the best - this is the sort of pain one doesn't need!

Myles

Mine brought out maybe one mm of the thread with it. I guess the rest is floating around, waiting to cause me more trouble....
I'm going to try a schraeder valve in the short term Got a few of those around.... and some Stag. Bloody thing will probably foul on the bonnet

Think I’m going to try a rivnut, once I find them. Sigh. I get part way through cleaning up and organising and then something gets in the way and I have to start again. Thus everything gets even more lost?
But a suitable rivnut, with some sealant like Stag, might get me mobile.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I'll see if I can find the box, but at amost 300,000km I replaced mine. The car comes up to temp really quickly now compared to the LandRover one, its great.

Found it! It was a Dayco.

IMG_5054.jpg

My temporary fix for the bleed screw was to get a large diameter bolt with a coarse thread.

From memory it was a half inch NC. I drilled out the bleed screw thread and threaded the bolt into the rubber, after I tapped a hole in it for the bleed screw.

This temporary fix was there for a few years until I changed the hose.

Bleed Screw Repair - Copy (2).jpg

My "temporary" fix was just that: temporary. I didn't have anything that would fit so I glued it back in.... being Monday I decided to get the new hose I know it needed. It blew the valve thingy out at some point on the journey. Nano reported only 99°, but of course the sensor may not have had any coolant around it. Could only get a Britpart one, but it seems to be a better design. Now to fit it. That bottom hose clamp is a bugger with one arm.

Still chasing the overheat. Still think it’s an airlock but I am removing the rad and thermostat because it has not been done in over a decade, so why not? But…. I have been using the Nanocom to monitor the temperature. Now I understand the D2 temperature gauge. My temps have been varying by thirty degrees while at the same time the factory gauge stays stubbornly on half. I guess LR thought owners would have heart attacks if the gauge actually represented what the car was actually doing

John, surely this is not news to you!