Reply With QuoteThanks very much Arthur, the detailed description is very helpful. I'll get my lackie behind the steering wheel tomorrow, and report back!
TopicToaster
SupporterThis is normal from under the car doing the check. When new tie rod ends will be tighter and require more force to twist. As they age, this gets easier. If they're a bit old and don't have any movement, I'd worry that they're seized up completely.Originally Posted by Campaspe Man
if you can grab yourself a lackie!! ... you'll be under the car and they will be inside turning the stg wheel left right in about 1/2 to 1/4 turns continuously and you will be watching for any slack between the trackrod and the steering knuckle arm movements.
That is, watch both drag link and pass side knuckle for movement. If the drag link moves a teeny bit but there is a slight slack/delay in the knuckle arm, then the tie rod is worn. Same for track rod.
You can have easy rotation movement in the tie rod, but its still tight enough between rod and knuckle.
Any slack in the tie rod end is usually felt as a wobble, death wobble, etc. if the steering damper is also worn just get more wobbles.
Steering damper is best taken off and push or pull it to be in it's central extended position. Then push-pull it at that point, only by a few cm, and if that has any slackness or loose play then it's stuffed. Don't need to fully compress/extend it to do this check.
if you require any tie rod end replacements, I've found that not only is the aftermarket heavy duty bars cheaper overall, but they're also more durable ... and more importantly they use all separate tie rod end joints.
The original set up on the D2(D1 is different) IIRC, only two of the tie rod ends are separate items, and the other two are crimped onto the bars.
So that if the crimped tie rods is worn, you can't replace the joint, you got to get the entire bar(ie. more expensive).
I had a set of these 'heavy duty' bars(both) off ebay for under $300. Can't recall the brand, but looks to be Britpart -ish.
had it on car now for a few thousand klms and rod ends still feel good. Only problem with them is the rubber cover can split so quickly on some. Rubber covers are both cheap and easy to source from Repco/SC/auto stores.
Only annoyance I found with installing them is the 'wrong way around config' of the stg damper bracket. The original uses a welded bracket(ie. easy peasy). Aftermarket type commonly found uses a clamped bracket setup. You have to find the centre of the damper and then set it up to clamp the bracket onto the drag link. Problem is when you try to fit the 4 nuts-bolts the bolts are long and the design doesn't allow a lot of arc to tighten the nuts bolts. They take an excruciating long time to tighten down.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Fossicker
SupporterThanks very much Arthur, the detailed description is very helpful. I'll get my lackie behind the steering wheel tomorrow, and report back!
Fossicker
SupporterWell, I replaced the front bushes on the front shocks and reinstalled same. I've followed Arthur's instructions, and with the help of Mrs Lackie on the wheel, inspected the tie rod ends, and the damper. Everything seemed pretty good to me, but for reassurance I asked the assistant to conduct and independent inspection... she queried one end of the track rod, but on further consultation we agreed it seems fine.
Test drive went well.
Now that I have new tyres on the front, I'm concerned to make sure the toe adjustment is correct (given the history of inside wearing). Should I try to have an alignment done at the local tyre shop (they weren't too keen), or should I start with the string method I've seen mentioned?
I've looked at this thread - Disco 2 wheel alignment specifications - and note the comments about 0-2mm max toe-out. What is the aim? Dead straight, or slightly out? Or am I interpreting this incorrectly?
Any thoughts on the LR recommended tyre pressures for the '99 D2 - IIRC - 28psi front/ 36+ rear? I usually go a touch over 28 at the front and 35/36 rear - especially as I drive a lot on gravel with pot holes...
Cheers,
Myles
'99 D2 Td5 Auto
2004 D2a Td5 Auto
('97 D1 V8, off herding sheep somewhere)
Swaggie
I would get a wheel alignment shop to do it. They can also tweak it based on the way your tyres are wearing.
My Audi was really hard on front outer shoulders and I had to drive it so gently with higher pressures not to chop them out. All good now.
My Disco2, it doesn't matter how hard it gets flogged, the tyres always wear evenly.
I don't run 28psi in the front because it generates a lot of push in the front. 30 is marginal, 32 is good without getting harsh. Rears I run 34 to keep it soft. If I'm doing long highway runs (I live rural NSW) then I up them to F36/R38 to make them roll better. I'm on a dirt driveway and we've got loads of potholes too.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Master
SubscriberWithout hijacking this thread....
Slunnie, do you think those pressures would apply regardless of size? The reason I'm asking is my sons D2a runs 256/75/16 mud terrains and I run 267/70/17 BGF AT's. I think I currently run about 40 all round, wear seems pretty even, but might be a little harsh on the crappy roads around here
any input greatly appreciated
Cheers
Redd
2003 D2a "The Red Rig" TD5 auto, (number 1 son is now the operator)
2003 D2a "White Weapon" TD5, auto, 17" BFG's and more to follow
Almost qualified as a Land Rover operator
Swaggie
I think the tyre size and carcass makes a difference but I think you will find very similar with the tyre sizes I think you're running. I'm on 285/75-16.
I think 40 is very high, although you might run that in the rear when towing.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Swaggie
FWIW,I ran 35 to 36PSI all round, on our D2s,BFG A/T,stock size.
They always wore well,often getting 80 to 90,000Km out of a set.
Corrugations,sand,etc lowered to suit.
Front shocks were usually shagged at around 160,000Km,and front springs stuffed as well.
Replaced with Kings and Bilstein shocks,all good.
Master
SupporterIf you're running anything other than an equivalent grade of tyre than what came from factory the best thing is to go to that brands website and get their tyre table info, when you look at the lowest weight capacity of that tyre it will have the lowest pressure you should be running at to keep the sidewall bulge/tyre heat in design specs, after that it will list each incremental weight increase and its corresponding tyre pressure.
My Toyo Open Country goes from 35 to 80 psi, there is no lower pressure specified for it and if I drop them to 28 the ride goes all wishy washy and steering like a barge, at 80psi without any load I might as well be driving on the rim.
Fossicker
SupporterThanks John (and also all the other ideas and advice in this thread).
I'm running Cooper AT3's - so I'm assuming these would be pretty close to equivalent of the original..?? That said, I went to the Cooper website, but couldn't locate the sort of detail you refer to above. There was however quite a bit of general advice for different conditions, including the advice that older cars calling for inflation below 30 psi should not be followed. So that's interesting. I think, given my day to day mix of rough gravel and tarmac, 32 at the front and higher at rear - pretty much as Slunnie said.
Cheers,
Myles
'99 D2 Td5 Auto
2004 D2a Td5 Auto
('97 D1 V8, off herding sheep somewhere)
Super Moderator
Car manufacturers recommend the lower end, to give the car a better ride. Tyre manufacturers recommend the higher end, to extend tyre life.
Most tyre retailers go for 40 psi in all 4x4 regardless of weight or size.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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