Thread: D2 front shockers - replacing bushings after 340,000 km's

Originally Posted by TonyC

The drag link goes from the steering box to the left (on a right hand drive car) front wheel.
The tie rod goes from one front wheel to the other, it's behind the axel on a D1 or Defender, I assume the same on a D2.

Play in the drag link ball joints won't affect the wheel alignment, play in the tie rod ball joints will.

Play in any need to be fixed.

Tony

Thanks Tony - yes, the jiggle is in the forward steering drag link at the wheel/knuckle.
Gotcha.

Myles

Originally Posted by discorevy

If the tyres were worn on the inside, you had too much negative toe, which the image shows.

You still want negative Toe ( front tyres pointing outward ) but only -1mm, not -4.1mm.

they are now toeing in, (+1.1mm) which is the opposite of what you want.

You will never get an accurate alignment with unservicable Tie or track rod ends.

They should have checked this before attempting a wheel alignment.

The difference between different sides just means the wheels weren't perfectly straight when the alignment was done.

Oh dear. I used the words "toe-out" 1mm. I must admit that I took this to mean positive toe. But you are clearly saying that toe-out is negative. I suspect the error was made when the lad working on the car called me and referred to positve rather than toe-in (and I made the mistake at that point).

Oh well, shouldn't be too hard to fix (once I deal with the drag link jiggle).

Cheers,
Myles

Originally Posted by Campaspe Man

But I'm sensing you don't think it should have any jiggle in it?

Nup. It's on its way to failing. Personally, I'd replace all the tie-rod ends and do another alignment.

Originally Posted by DieselLSE

Nup. It's on its way to failing. Personally, I'd replace all the tie-rod ends and do another alignment.

Yeah, same advice from me too.

Usually you will find, fix the worn one ... and then another will follow suit, then another one ... etc.

I think I mentioned before, the D2's tie rod end design is such that one end is crimped to the rod itself, where the D1/RRC/other solid axle 4WDs have rods and ends all separated.
So if you use std D2 parts, when you order 'tie rod ends' you will only get two rod ends and two rods too.
Original stuff is quite expensive, aftermarket is a lot cheaper(less than half).
And one thing to watch for is the male-female thread end on the track rod. The threads can be worn/rusted/damaged and if you do get the track rod it can be a total pain trying to get the old thread link into the new rod.

If you plan to keep the D2 for a few years, I'd suggest to get the terrafirma HD set. End up costing the same or cheaper than the std aftermarket sets for the D2. The bonus is that at some future date all the rod ends on the TF set are independent(ie. cheaper)
You can usually find them on ebay.

Originally Posted by discorevy

If the tyres were worn on the inside, you had too much negative toe, which the image shows.

You still want negative Toe ( front tyres pointing outward ) but only -1mm, not -4.1mm.

they are now toeing in, (+1.1mm) which is the opposite of what you want.

You will never get an accurate alignment with unservicable Tie or track rod ends.

They should have checked this before attempting a wheel alignment.

The difference between different sides just means the wheels weren't perfectly straight when the alignment was done.

For my edification, may I ask why negative toe is tyres pointing outwards, and positive toe, in? Somehow this seems the opposite of what "makes sense" to me? Is it because the toe is set on the track rod, which I suppose will be shortened (or negative) in order to achieve the opposite at the leading edge of the tyres?

Or sumit else?

Thanks,
Myles