Thread: D2 front drive shaft problem?

if you want to do it yourself....

I found the heavy duty greasable hardy spicer UJ at CBC bearings for $20 each. Considering I thought my transfer case was blown....it was very cheap alternative.

the part numbers on Urban Panzas site are a little old for the Hardie SPicer UJ

they now are K5-L4R (1300 series)

Get yourself a good set of circlip pliers if your old UJ's have the old circlips. These new UJ's use pointy nose pliers to instal and remove the circlip

After doing mine.....no more vibrations!!!!!

here is the link to Urban Panzas shaft rebuild

happy rebuilding.

Originally Posted by Andrew D

Chilly,

Don't you like reading.
Read all 19 pages...thanks
Take it out and drop it off at Hardy Spicer. (or someone who repairs drivelines)
Why? Can repair myself. O and where are Hardy Spicer where I live?
If there's no excessive play in the shaft (not the UJs) they will replace the UJ.
Not paying someone else
Pick-up the next day and put in back in.
Do it in the morning myself...put in back in
End of story.
Sure is...or is it
That's will set you back about $300 clams.
No!
No need to replace the whole shaft if there's nothing wrong with the spline.
No there is no need to replace...however there is talk of other shafts which are stronger!!
Regards
Andrew

Ta


After reading all 19 pages and other posts it is easy to get confused..and being a great site...it is good for the help given to clear the mud in the head.

New UJ's purchased and will be fitted tomorrow morning

Thanks all

The stronger shafts mentioned are the Tom Woods shafts. Around $600- but a moce better shaft, but only a consideration when you have lift plus some other driveline upgrades (lockers etc) making the shaft the weakest link. Probably time to reroute the A/C drains while yo're under there, my shaft at 215000 is great considering the drama stories I keep reading but I grease it regularly and have both drains moved. he Drivers Side drips onto the shaft but the Pass Side drips onto the auto XYZ switch killing it, so thats a consideration if you're auto.

Hey all

I posted this in the thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...m-close-9.html

It can be informative for you also!

Hey guys!

I saw this thread when I was looking for a new propshaft - again.. This is what happened:

I have a Disco 2 2003 TD5 Auto with the original front propshaft going strong after 18000km. It had a mild vibration though but I could drive as fast as the TD5 could push it and the car was running super smooth. The mild vibration occurred at around 100km/h(60mph) and I wanted replace it because of the milage and to cure the vibration..

I searched around the net trying to find the right part, I was a little cheap to buy the TVB000220 part and was hoping to find someone that have tested the TVB000110 part. Finally I found someone on the net that had done what I had in mind. I ordered the TVB000110 and when it arrived I saw that it was a "Britpart". I changed the shaft and put 8 new bolts on and gave it a spin;

The whole car started to vibrate bad at around 120km/h! I tried to change the yoke angle 45 degrees (as on my old one) but the problem persisted. I have been driving it for 3months now (under 120km/h) and yesterday the centerball in the double cardan broke. The car vibrates, rattles and is undrivable.. After 3months?? Is it Britpart, wrong part or lemonpart?

Im buying the TVB000220 now, here in Sweden a rebuild cost the same as buying the part from England.

Question; What brand is the genuine propshaft? Is Hardy Spicer better than Britpart?

Anyway, to add my part of the discussion, see if you have another propshaft than recommended on your car..

By the way, I lived in Sydney 2003 and studied at UTS. I had a really good time and I would like to go back sometime!

Regards,
Carl

Carl

Not exactly sure but did the shaft need to be re-balanced. This could be your probelm.

Regards
Andrew

Originally Posted by disco_disco

Yes just realised his is far from stock having looked through his website photos.
Slunnie
i noticed you have upgraded both shafts to the Tom Woods shafts. do you think this is a better path to go down rather than just doing the front shaft ?
If anybody else has done this please feel free to comment.

Hi
Fitted a Tom Woods front shaft a couple of years ago after trying another manufactures H/duty DC joint that had terrible vibration problems. I highly recommend the TW shaft.

Having assisted at a D2 roadside recovery due to a broken front shaft Carden joint and later talking to a D2A owner who had the Carden joint collapse at speed ($8,000) decided to inspect mine. Second uni in the joint absolutely (@$#ted). Rang Adelaide branch of hardy Spicer and was advised they do not stock the centre ball for the standard D2 shaft. They quoted $722.00 to replace the joint with a HD unit and balance the shaft. TR Spares at Lonsdale no longer supply the parts to repair the D2 shafts due to comeback & balance issues. Purchased a standard S/H D2A shaft from them. (They have sold 6 this week!!!!).
Vehicle has done 133,000km, very little off road. Suspension standard. Approx third total km,s towing a caravan. Never had a hard days work in it's life. Is it time now for Pedro to collate all the info in this thread and give us some direction?
Regards
Harry

We fitted standard greasable unis into our Disco at 30,000kms, pump in a bit of grease after heavy rain and when the service is due. Just clocked 300,000kms with no problems, still with the same unis.

We have a reasonable lift and have done heaps of off road, but not the extreme stuff the likes of Slunnie do though.

Erich