Thread: D2 front drive shaft problem?

I have a 2001 disco td5 auto.
So just to confirm part # for my shopping list,
Front uni - K5-A757 x3
Front ball - SCV-82B or SCV-082A ?
Rear uni - K5-L4R x 2 + the rubber coupling.

Thanks Thingy.

Originally Posted by Thingy

I have a 2001 disco td5 auto.
So just to confirm part # for my shopping list,
Front uni - K5-A757 x3
Front ball - SCV-82B or SCV-082A ?
Rear uni - K5-L4R x 2 + the rubber coupling.

Thanks Thingy.

I'd use either K5-A757 or OE GKN/Land Rover HD TVC100010 uni's everywhere.

Just have a look at the photo's I posted earlier, why would you want a weaker uni in place ?

Originally Posted by Thingy

I have a 2001 disco td5 auto.
So just to confirm part # for my shopping list,
Front uni - K5-A757 x3
Front ball - SCV-82B or SCV-082A ?
Rear uni - K5-L4R x 2 + the rubber coupling.

Thanks Thingy.

The SCV-82B is correct the A dust seal will not fit
The K5-L4R will replace all 4 unis which are better sealed for dust and dirt

Originally Posted by northiam

The K5-L4R will replace all 4 unis which are better sealed for dust and dirt

I give up

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/5442/sdsc00027.jpg

don't give up, life's to short...

Your own pic above shows the lack of sealing and the geeza concurs at
Driveline Services Australia | Driveline Services where I picked up the spares and compared the K5-A757.
Some would agree it's the dirt and water and lack of lubrication that wears the universals

Originally Posted by northiam

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/5442/sdsc00027.jpg

don't give up, life's to short...

Your own pic above shows the lack of sealing and the geeza concurs at
Driveline Services Australia | Driveline Services where I picked up the spares and compared the K5-A757.
Some would agree it's the dirt and water and lack of lubrication that wears the universals

Just picked up mine from the Nth Melbourne branch of the same mob.

The wear in mine was pretty minimal, possibly within tolerance of the bearing caps or possibly early stages of wear. They spun it up on the balancer and said it ran true which seems to be their test for worn uni's. In the end the shaft only required minor balancing. There is a bit of movement in the centre ball but they seemed to think it was ok for the moment.

The guy I spoke to felt that it would probably better to replace with a new shaft, than rebuild the old one. His argument was that once the centre pin and ball start to wear you can't get rid of play by putting a ball kit in.

Judging by the paint spots and punch marks mine has been rebuilt before, so I'll be looking at replacing with new when it comes to that point.

cheers
Paul

Originally Posted by OffTrack

Just picked up mine from the Nth Melbourne branch of the same mob.

The wear in mine was pretty minimal, possibly within tolerance of the bearing caps or possibly early stages of wear. They spun it up on the balancer and said it ran true which seems to be their test for worn uni's. In the end the shaft only required minor balancing. There is a bit of movement in the centre ball but they seemed to think it was ok for the moment.

The guy I spoke to felt that it would probably better to replace with a new shaft, than rebuild the old one. His argument was that once the centre pin and ball start to wear you can't get rid of play by putting a ball kit in.

Judging by the paint spots and punch marks mine has been rebuilt before, so I'll be looking at replacing with new when it comes to that point.

cheers
Paul

Odd
When I enquired about balancing the drive shaft they wanted it bare with no unis or dc joint fitted!
They also said the centre pin can be sleeved if worn.
Regards

Originally Posted by northiam

Odd
When I enquired about balancing the drive shaft they wanted it bare with no unis or dc joint fitted!
They also said the centre pin can be sleeved if worn.
Regards

The Nth Melbourne guys were saying both the centre pin and the ball part in the yoke end wear. Just relaying what I was told.