Thread: D2 front drive shaft problem?

I read about these shafts going bang as a results our D2's getting old and the K's taking toll.

I changed mine out about a year ago at 95k. I only changed out of fear and to avoid major damage. The old one still has a few K's left in it so I kept it, and may rebuild.

I'm now running a recon unit with full serviceable uni's from TR Spares in Sydney. $425 and Peace of mind and I can duck under and lube up when ever I like or need to.

The woods unis are stronger on many fronts, the material alone. Cast steel vs iron. They (you know, them, those people) say the greasable are as strong as the non but in practice and simply because it's the same uni and material with holes drilled into it, they aren't. They allow more angle at the flange as they were designed to flex without sacrificing strength. He also uses a different seal to any other I've seen, stands up to the heat around the exhaust and whatever grease it is it doesn't break down and after two years it was still clean and not broken down at all with no sign of dirt or water ingress.

Below is all the info I chased back in 2011 on all the options from std to an option that's $2000 for one joint alone. From this thread; http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/6...ml#post1554889

Went chasing yesterday to fix the shaft issue I finally ended up with. A variety of information ensued, mostly conflicting with each other between manufacturers of parts and the people who use said parts to build assemblies. I have also amassed a list of different numbers for the unis and centre balls.

Hardy Spicer's info: The std uni is a 1300, available in greasable and non-greasable. A 1310 won't fit as while the cap sizes are the same the cross is slightly wider and the caps will not fit inside the circlips. The std unis are about $45-. The centre ball is approx $80-.

A "first stage" upgrade would be to build a new shaft for 1310's, the biggest uni that a flange is available for to suit the Rover transfer flange. Costing approx $60- per uni plus larger double cardan assembly, centre ball & welding, balancing etc. Approx $480-

A "Ultimate" upgrade consists of a 1310 upgrade at the diff end plus a 25R double cardan at the transfer end. This is a Toyota joint with massive unis and a specially made flange for the transfer end. The 25R joint is approx $460- plus $60- for the 1310 uni plus assy and balancing. Approx total $900-.

Metropolitan Driveshafts: Same info re sizing of the 1300/1310 joints. Have data showing that the greasable 1300/1310 are weaker than the non-greasble options (but couldn't write down data). Dearer on the parts but would gladly reco a std shaft from outside parts. Approx $250- or $370- for overhaul with their unis plus $175- for centre ball. Important to note that they picked up that one of my caps was loose in the yoke, dismantled to demonstrate and noted that they would need to shrink and ream it back to shape/size. HS only said "It's stuffed, need new yoke assy welded onto the shaft and matching flange, nah they have to be a set" (of course diff end not the DC that needs doing anyway) and it's also the shaft side so I couldn't get away with only the flange replacement.

Their first upgrade would be a 1310 as again it's the largest that fits the Rover transfer flange. Approx $550-

Best upgrade interestingly was to go to a "Cornay" joint with an adaptor flange at the transfer end. They don't have the 25R joint as the Rover flange is unique to HS. The cornay joint is $2000-.

Std uni part no's:
Spicer K5-L4R (should be greasable)
Matsuba 2275-B(344)
GKN HS160 (TVC100010G)
Precision 344
Neapco1-0005
??? TVB000220

Heavy Duty Part no's:
Spicer K5-A757
??? TVC100010D

Centre Ball part no's:
Spicer SCV-082A (greasable)
SCV-082B (greasable)

Precision 617
Neapco 7-0081NG


HD 25R Toyo Double Cardan

At the end of all discussions I presented the data and all info I could print out on the Tom Woods shafts and the pricing. Their was unanimous agreement that neither Spicers or Metro could match the strength or the angles of the joints (without going to extremes) and certainly not for the price. They both said go for the Woods shaft.

Although I agree that the greasable uni is weaker then the non greasable has anyone ever had a spicer K5 HD uni break?

Also the tom woods shaft sounds like the go for serious flex but is it over kill for a 2 inch lifted cruiser that gets dirty occasionally?

Are you fellas aware that a diff yoke from a 9" ford diff will fit with a little machining .Forged .billet. or cast in 1310----1350 sizes heaps of articulation.I did a post afair while ago LT 230 with some pics

The woods shaft for such application, in fact most, is a one off purchase. Apart for at some point eventual replacement of unis/ball from wear and tear which occurs in any application.

Just because its only 2" (most D2s on here would be in that range) doesn't negate the need for a quality unit. The unis are capable of more angle, very well sealed and I know of no failures of woods components on a D2, fully greasable and rebuildable and his parts are available locally & priced competitively and when you compare the frequency of replacing std items vs a woods unit probably works out cheaper.

It comes down to gambling with your transfer and gearbox, and how much you're willing to bet. But at around 8k for an auto and transfer to replace, $600 is cheap insurance.

And for more than 2" they recommend different units anyway.

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

The woods shaft for such application, in fact most, is a one off purchase. Apart for at some point eventual replacement of unis/ball from wear and tear which occurs in any application.

Just because its only 2" (most D2s on here would be in that range) doesn't negate the need for a quality unit. The unis are capable of more angle, very well sealed and I know of no failures of woods components on a D2, fully greasable and rebuildable and his parts are available locally & priced competitively and when you compare the frequency of replacing std items vs a woods unit probably works out cheaper.

It comes down to gambling with your transfer and gearbox, and how much you're willing to bet. But at around 8k for an auto and transfer to replace, $600 is cheap insurance.

And for more than 2" they recommend different units anyway.

I purchased my TW shaft long before I lifted it. This was one of the first spends on my D2 when I got it.

Cheap insurance in my book and as I have mentioned plenty of times before, I now sleep better at night.

As for 8K for an auto, When DM Digital's let go, without warning and being thoroughly inspected before his trip, his repair bill was 10K

yes,, but some of that must have been panel damage,,
gees it made a mess of his car,,,

Like clubagreenie ... although I didn't go in to it in as much depth ... TW for $580 delivered, bolt it in, and other than normal servicing, sleep easy and worry about more important D2 issues

No brainer imho. A few more $$ than a rebuild, but MUCH more robust.