Thread: TD5 overheated

if youve driven it up a hill it should be bleed by now, you have to watch it tho on average the air it bleeds out displaces the whole contents of the resivior bottle and thats it as in

you fill the system to the required level
you drive it nose up a good incline (20 degrees or more)
run the engine for a couple of minutes with the heater on flat out
reverse down
check the level

you should now notice that the coolant tank is nearly empty fill it to the level and thats it your all bled up.

if its still taking coolant you have problems...check your oil and if its not in there then its the head or the gasket, hopefully just the latter.

Originally Posted by Ricey

Thanks Blknight, I checked the reservoir before the trip & noticed it was a bit high, then drove a few hundred kays through very hilly country & a number of stop starts when she overheated. Bled it there on the spot & again this morning it needed further bleeding till I got a good flow from the bleed screw. Then tonight I had further overheating coming up Mt Victoria but as I was right at the top when the power dropped off I coasted down the range to keep the air at it and she cooled back down. Either I've still got air in there or something else is happening. I'll do another bleed in the morning & contact Davey re the alarm.

Pete, when you bleed the system, fill it up and take the expansion tank off and hold it up above the top radiator hose, then open the bleed screw untill you get a constant flow, this gets all the air out, re tighten the bleed screw and put the expansion tank back in place and top it up.

This is the proceedure from the manual, and it works the best, you may need 2 people too make it a lot easier.

Baz.

Baz.

Thanks everyone, yeh Baz, that's the method I used along with the heater on flat out. It's easy to unclip & raise the expansion tank to get good flow out the bleed screw. Dave, the level has barely dropped & i'd say in total I've put half a litre back in. I'll do the 3rd bleed tonight when I get back from work.
Pete

Originally Posted by Ricey

Thanks everyone, yeh Baz, that's the method I used along with the heater on flat out. It's easy to unclip & raise the expansion tank to get good flow out the bleed screw. Dave, the level has barely dropped & i'd say in total I've put half a litre back in. I'll do the 3rd bleed tonight when I get back from work.
Pete

OK, good luck mate, hope this is all it is.

Just for future reference, no need to have the heater going as the D2 has climate control and there is no flow to the heater under 1500 RPM.

Baz.

Originally Posted by Redback

Pete, when you bleed the system, fill it up and take the expansion tank off and hold it up above the top radiator hose, then open the bleed screw untill you get a constant flow, this gets all the air out, re tighten the bleed screw and put the expansion tank back in place and top it up.

This is the proceedure from the manual, and it works the best, you may need 2 people too make it a lot easier.

Baz.

Baz.

Yep .... bleeding the air out properly, is a priority in all engines .... I come from Ford stock and all you do is turn on heater and fill up radiator

When I bought my RRC ... TOTALLY different story on how to do it .... My first change of fluid was a disaster .... air problems, over heating, steamed , Water gushing out of expansion tank, pressure bursts of water, everything you could have imagined .... I thought I had a blown head gasket BIGTIME

BUT ... I then paid real close attention to the correct procedure and method of fill & bleed ... Presto .... no more problems (and that was 2 years ago)

I am also thinking that incorrect procedures for the "fill & bleed of coolant" may be the basis of why so many heads are failing rather than "the head gasket is at fault"

Mike

Originally Posted by Redback

OK, good luck mate, hope this is all it is.

Just for future reference, no need to have the heater going as the D2 has climate control and there is no flow to the heater under 1500 RPM.

Baz.

Not quite...

There is always full flow through the heater core, even with Climate Control off. Under 1500 rpm the thermostat bypass valve wont open so as to ensure there's always plenty of flow through the heater core.