Thread: CDL Actuation with 10mm Spanner

Hi Dan. Can you take some photos of the kit in place to see what it looks like 9both underneath and in the cabin (ie lever/ button). You mentioned this was still factory looking - I'm a fan of this, but I can't understand how the manual kit can still look factory in the cabin (with the electric kit, you can obviously use the spare buttons on the dash).

Cheers!

Originally Posted by DiscoDan

I priced all the electric kits and went for a TRS kit for $695, seemed dear at the time however better than laying in the mud...

It took me all of 2 hours to fit, and I can disengage it then turn off the car. Restart car and re-engage without TCS getting upset.

Mate paid a bit more for the electric set up and the one time he needed it it failed.

And the car looks factory due to it having factory parts (although later) No holes had to be drilled......only rivets removed and replaced

Originally Posted by Ballas

Hi Dan. Can you take some photos of the kit in place to see what it looks like 9both underneath and in the cabin (ie lever/ button). You mentioned this was still factory looking - I'm a fan of this, but I can't understand how the manual kit can still look factory in the cabin (with the electric kit, you can obviously use the spare buttons on the dash).

Cheers!

Hi Ballas, mine is a factory DIIa but basicly the same as the TRS kit, the high/low lever in front of the gearlever looks the same.


The kit below is from Ashcrofts Transmissions in the UK


It basicly replaces your high/low range lever with the D2a style lever allowing you to lock your centre diff.

Originally Posted by DiscoDan

I have been told by a few owners and have also read that the TCS goes off pretty bad in soft sand, causing the brakes to heat and the car to slow.

Having not a lot of experience in soft sand and really limited beach work (prefer the bush) I can't say as to whether this would affect me. So I thought having the switch would be the best of both worlds.

Does cutting the wire effect TCS around town?

Danny

All that cutting the wire does is stop the car disabling the TC "if" you engage the Difflock then start the car. it does not affect its normal operation at all.

Why anyone would want a CDL but no TC is beyond me, adding a CDL and having TC as well, is as close as you'll get to having front and rear locking differentials, but without the install cost of those + when you do have a CDL the TC works a LOT less anyway. The more "physical" locks you add, the more redundant the TC becomes.

Regarding the TC in sand. Generally its not too bad. On the flat, ok, but as said in soft sand and up hill, it can kill your forward momentum. Last trip to calcup hill, we had the chance to observe a stock td5 and stock v8 d2 in these conditions. In the TD5 there was an inherent advantage in that booting it up hills, the was not the power to cause wheel spin as much as in the v8 so TC did not kick in as early but it did kick in causing loss of momentum. In the V8 it just murdered it going up a hill. Planting the foot to get a run simply caused mass TC action and by the time we were half way up the slope, dead and buried. The TD5 also had a manual activation of the CDL available and with this on, and TC off, one attempt at 150 meter upslope runs, done easy.

TC will not always cause problems but I saw enough to say that in soft big sand, especially uphill, and with the power of the v8 to temper, TC can be an absolute show stopper.

Nick

Err sort of forgot my point there.

Upshot, - CDL plus the option to run with or with out TC is the optimum. Cutting the wire is not the answer as you lose the option of turning it off. I beleive Slunnie has already stated it clearly, a switch to control TC with CDL activated is essential. I would fully support this conclusion.

Nick

Do the D2 and D2a electronic ZF's have identical CDL/HL lever mounts (even though it may not have been not used) as the D1 hydraulic ZF CDL/HL lever mount?

Originally Posted by jmkoffice

Not allegedly transfers noise, it definitely transfers noise and vibration. This is why the design was changed from a lever operated-direct TC mounted unit to a cable operated-tunnel mount unit.

I don't have a D2 but I would assume that if you could fit the D1 CDL actuator assembly to the D2 then even if it did transmit noise it wouldn't be any different to what you get in the D1?
I suppose you might hear the noise more though if you go from no CDL noise to some CDL noise. Especially since the D2 is quieter than the D1 inside the cabin.

Originally Posted by cockie55

Do the D2 and D2a electronic ZF's have identical CDL lever mount (even though it may not have been not used) as the D1 hydraulic ZF's?

Yes, but the mounting plate will need to be widened where the new lever goes through so it can move sideways, but the mount is the same, also the D2a cable CDL is the same whether you have a manual or auto.

FROM THIS


TO THIS

You may want to make yours a bit tidier

The D1 linkage system won't fit in the transmission tunnel of the D2 AUTO only the manual just, with some modification.

So if you have a D2 AUTO then the D2a cable system is the only option.

Baz.