Penrite Oils V's other branded oils ?

landyprincess · 23rd January 2009, 11:27 PM

Hi there...
I may be adding a few here tonight i'v got some catching up to do *lol*...

ok - i'm looking at replacing the oils (engine PENRITE HPR10 /manual trans R380 /transfer case LT230 /power steering PAS Fluid /front&rear diff TRANSAXLE 75 ) and went onto roverparts and they are recommending to use penrite oil for all of them.

I'm just wondering what other brands folk use out there and where penrite sits in the oils of things. i.e good, crap excellent brand, waste of money, too expensive for what they are type of product?

What are other brands that folk use?

Of those who have used penrite how have you found the oil. i.e too heavy, too think, overkill etc....

If there are better brands (i.e. backed up by data) would like to hear as i'm trying to get a feel for what would be best to use without breaking the bank.

Thanks

Lp

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 24th January 2009, 12:21 AM

I used HPR30 in the D1 for over 150,000 kays,
changed it at 5K intervals, NEVER needed topping up.
Use HPR10 in the D2 for 50,000 kays at 5K intervals, never needs topping up.

I'd follow their advice,,,

**dmdigital** · 24th January 2009, 06:44 AM

In the Tdi I use Penrite HPR Diesel. No problems at all. Watch the price of the oil as its sometimes cheaper to buy 2 x 5L containers and other times a 10L container.

I'm limited to what I can get and oils are either Castrol or Penrite. For the gearbox, diffs, transfer, etc, I use Castrol as this is available to me with out incurring freight costs.

When I had the D2 I used Magnatec without any problems.

**big guy** · 24th January 2009, 07:06 AM

Penrite for both the D1 and the Golf Tdi.

I use the synthetic in golf and 15/40 in Landy.

Trick is use the right oil filter, I use genuine filter and always have, they cost more but they actually filter stuff.

I had a oil temp and pressure gauge in last RRC with 4.6 and was amazed how the temp was higher and pressure lower on cheaper oils and when they are on their way out.

Synthetic oils also made them run slight cooler and with more oil pressure.
But the Penrite was the best mineral oil.

Hope it helps.

**V8Ian** · 24th January 2009, 09:09 AM

I've used Castrol for more years than I care to remember, in everything from roadtrains to motorbikes; never had a problem. Magnatech in the engine.
I flew to Cairns at Christmas to ride the bike (in storage 12mth) back to Brisbane, had it serviced prior, he used Motul

$130 for 4litres!
Made no difference, it's still a damned long way.

**Armadillo** · 24th January 2009, 09:30 AM

This is an interesting thread as I am considering using HPR50 for my next oil change in my rangie with the 3.5.

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 24th January 2009, 09:40 AM

Who uses Penrite engine oil ??

**Jezzaol** · 24th January 2009, 09:42 AM

I have been using Penrite HPR15 in both my 4.6's and always been quite happy, The 4.6HSE has always had a bit of an annoying rattle especially on start up so I decided to give Castrol Magnatec a go this last service and the rattle has completely gone away ? I also believe its much better to use a genuine or Coopers Oil filter !

Cheers

**rick130** · 24th January 2009, 12:05 PM

Originally Posted by djames

This is an interesting thread as I am considering using HPR50 for my next oil change in my rangie with the 3.5.

Miles too heavy IMO unless the engine is stuffed and burning copious quantities of oil.
You'll really feel the extra drag of the oil on engine performance and there is potential for too much strain on the oil pump drive with something that heavy.

With the V8's I'd be looking at an xW-40 or xW-50 for an engine in good nick, a 40W-70 is just nuts......with the diesels I don't go heavier than xW-40, (eg. 5W/10W/15W-40) there is no need and I have one ATM that is about to click over 300,000km and it uses about 500ml in 10-15,000km.
Penrites "thicker is better" philospohy is thankfully being dropped, it really turned me against them for a long time.

Look in your manual as to the recommended viscosity, then check online at the various oil companies websites as each oil company has an oil selector where you input the car and it spits out various lube recommendations.
Go with your favourite flavour, the upper end oils of each brand are good IMO with each company having one or two outstanding examples but it does depend on application a lot too.

**rick130** · 24th January 2009, 12:32 PM

Originally Posted by Jezzaol

I have been using Penrite HPR15 in both my 4.6's and always been quite happy, The 4.6HSE has always had a bit of an annoying rattle especially on start up so I decided to give Castrol Magnatec a go this last service and the rattle has completely gone away ? I also believe its much better to use a genuine or Coopers Oil filter !

Cheers

I'm not surprised, you've gone from a heavy 15w-60 (195cSt@ 40*C

) to a 10W-40 (101cSt @ 100*C)
Guess which one will flow quicker when cold

I tend to go for the lighter viscosity oil in a manufacturers recommended range, only going heavier if oil consumption is an issue.
Also remember that another brand of oil may be more suitable in the same viscosity in a particular engine.

Some oils are more volatile than others and 'flash off' at the rings and find their way down valve stem seals a little easier.

An often unpublished test for this is the NOACK number, expressed as a %. Obviously the lower the number, the less volatile the oil.
Generally speaking, anything around 10% is semi-synthetic territory, although some synthetics struggle to better a 10% loss, with some of the the ultra expensive synthetics with very little viscosity index improver are around the 6% mark (and surprisingly Penrite HPR15 too. The very heavy base oils would help enormously here ) Most mineral based oils are around 15% or worse and the wider the SAE viscosity range spread, the harder it is to achieve a low NOACK #. As with anything, there are trade offs and compromises in blending.

I wouldn't use a low HTHS oil either, Slunnie posted a link to another forum recently that explained this quite well. DiscoWeb Message Boards - View Single Post - Dealer says my engine is leaking oil because it is synthetic.. BS?
Avoid any oil that states it's 'energy conserving' or complies with ILSAC GF-4. They work well in modern engines, but may not give the old V8 enough lobe and lifter protection, or the skew gear on the oil pump drive.

Hell, this is easier

Had a re-read and he writes like me so I had to re-read it a few times to make sense of it ... the Boags tonight probably don't help either......

Basically what he's saying re HTHS numbers and the ACEA and API ratings is correct and very good info to remember.
.....yet interestingly the cam scuff limits and cam wear limits are the same for all ACEA A and B ratings....
IMO the AW/EP adds are just as important too and it becomes a balancing act of SAE viscosity range/HTHS viscosity and additive package to give adequate protection.
These days this is most easily achieved by a diesel/mixed fleet oil, or a dedicated/advertised V8 style oil that will usually indicate it's ZDDP content (the most common and well known AW additive for anti-scuff protection) on the container.

Just for a bit of light reading, here's a thread to really confuse you on oils for a Rover V8 on lr4x4 form a while back.

Page 1 Oil Type You Guys Use? - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
Page 2 Oil Type You Guys Use? - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

and here's a very good PDF by Widman who has been a contributor on Bob is The Oil Guy forums for years http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/range-rove...tml#post886865

Thread: Penrite Oils V's other branded oils ?

Thread Tools

Penrite Oils V's other branded oils ?

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions