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Thread: Coolant alarms

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Urban Panzer View Post
    Yeah seen that kit and can get it over here to, I like the simplicity of the screw in sensor, its just after reading the detailed post on here ref coolant alarms, it seems the top hose will still be full of coolant even when its loosing it "other" places, so im wondering how much you have to loose before it senses it.

    U.P, interesting question.

    As we know, the screw-in hose sensor, is fitted to hose (5). This is the top hose where coolant flows from the engine to the top of the radiator. There are two smaller hoses which flow coolant out of the top hose to the heater inlet pipe (4) and thermostat housing (13) respectively. The expansion tank (17) has coolant flowing from it through the heater/expansion tank return hose (16) to the coolant pump feed pipe (9). Coolant from the fuel cooler (22) also flows through the heater/expansion tank return hose (16) to the coolant pump feed pipe (9).

    Ignoring the other smaller pipes, would I be correct in saying, the expansion tank and top hose would both be ideal locations for a sensor detecting a drop in water level?

    If you think about it, the top hose may be a more suitable location as there is less water stored in the pipe itself and it has two pipes which can drain coolant out, thus creating an air lock around the sensor, which is fitted at the highest point of the top hose. Whereas the expansion tank may in fact drain slower as there is more stored coolant.

    Any other interpretations or tests people have done?
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  2. #12
    Ean Austral Guest
    I have been told by 2 independant L/R mechanics that the correct way to fill and bleed the cooling system is to loosen/remove the bleed screw in the top hose, then lift the header tank up from its cradle and fill until there is no bubbles coming out the bleed screw.
    If the senser is located where the bleed screw is then it would have to be very close to level with the header tank, hence the reason for raising the tank when filling/bleeding.
    If this is correct then the level in the top hose is same as the tank so the senser should be able to be used safely in either.
    Cheers Ean

  3. #13
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    I thought my post above turned the question of putting the sensor in the top hose from academic to anecdotal....ie in real life, irrespective of the theory it works and saved my engine whilst there was plenty of coolant left in her and the temp on the scanguage didnt rise...

  4. #14
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    Alarms?

    Hi all have been considering one for my discovery, Gave some thought to using a Toyota fuel filter alarm, the one that tells you when there is water in the spin on filter, Think with a few mods it could work??

    But will watch this forum and see whats reccommended

    Andrew

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Urban Panzer View Post
    Ok, been looking thru the archives, and read lots of stuff, but would like to see the "general" opinons on whos got what and why...??

    Im trying to determine whether or not to do a float switch in the header tank, or just screw in the engine saver and be done with it, but little concerned on which one is best as far as detecting low coolant first ?

    over to you guys
    I have a unit which was made by Redarc. Seems to be good so far although gives the occasional wake up beep. It senses from the resorvour, apparently this is the first place for the coolant to drop if there is a leak.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  6. #16
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    A TM2 is a good option and comparatively cheap. It attaches to the dash with a digital display showing your engine temp, with data coming from a sensor on mounted the block or heads (I put it under one of the thermostat bolts). You can set the temp at which it sounds an alarm, usually just above the max your engine runs at when hot.

    The problem with float types is that they don't let you know if say the fan fails, or a head gasket lets go.

  7. #17
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    Engine saver is not a float type but rather an electrode through which a very small current passes.

    Cheers

  8. #18
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    The sensor probe continually reads the electrical conductivity [EC] of what surrounds it and sends this info back to its ECU. If the probe sends a different EC reading to coolant then the ECU upon reading this instantly activates the warning alarm. Foolproof system.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traco View Post
    A TM2 is a good option and comparatively cheap. It attaches to the dash with a digital display showing your engine temp, with data coming from a sensor on mounted the block or heads (I put it under one of the thermostat bolts). You can set the temp at which it sounds an alarm, usually just above the max your engine runs at when hot.

    The problem with float types is that they don't let you know if say the fan fails, or a head gasket lets go.
    This heat sensor still relies on conductivity. The coolant level sensor (which is not a float) detects the drop in water level. This will detect a problem far earlier than the external temp sensor. Lack of adequate coolant in the system is the primary reason for the manufacturers temp sensor not working correctly - as there is no coolant surrounding the temperature sensor itself.

  10. #20
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    Low coolant alarms

    Hi All

    Just a bit of perspective from a manufacturers viewpoint.

    The land Rover header tanks (expansion) have a horrible reputation for
    cracking so it never made sense to me to start drilling holes in them for
    low coolant sensors.

    That leaves the thermostat housing, the top hose and the radiator top tank.

    The early V8, and 200/300 tdi have an existing bleed plug in the top of
    the radiator tanks which is an ideal position for a sensor.
    So I manufactured sensors for them.
    We ran a laser level through the engine bay of a 300tdi Defender and established that the sensor is at the same height as the recommended coolant level in the header tank.

    The 200/300 td1 also have the same plug in the thermostat housing
    but there is always an air pocket underneath it which takes a while to fill on start up and needs an unacceptably long alarm delay or a very long sensor to reach the coolant, so the radiator makes more sense.

    The later V8 & Td5 have no bleed plugs in the radiators, which have
    plastic tanks which would require drilling and the self expanding type of sensor fitting.
    These type of rubber bung sensors are unreliable and the size of hole
    needed to be drilled in the tank could compromise its integrity.
    In fact many radiator repairers are now refusing to drill holes or fit sensors through plastic radiator tanks.

    So.. I manufactured sensors to simply replace the bleed screws in the top
    radiator hoses.
    These screws are effectivley at the highest point in the system so air can be bled out and are a good place to position sensors.

    Just one point someone else made regarding the TM-2 ( Which I am an agent for & also convert to dual sensor low coolant / high temp units)

    Never fit the sensor to the thermostat housing, as if coolant is suddenly lost, the alluminium will rapidly cool and not heat up again untill after heat soaks into it from the already overheated cylinder head.
    This information came from a man who cooked his Land Rover engine with the heat sensor fitted in that position.
    It gives a really close to coolant reading but is not reliable as far as engine protection is concerned.


    Davy

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