Thread: Need front rear universal joint - urgently

you may not be stuck.

climb under the vehicle from the drivers side slide your hand up over the front propshaft and feel around the top of the diff housing of the Tcase.


if you can feel a small stub on the top of the foot transfer case you can lock it into front wheel drive by turning it with a 10mm spanner or a small shifter, in a pinch pliers or vice grips will get it around.


its on top of the center diff housing about 4 inches back from the flange.

once youve worked out where it is and are satisfied that you can turn it and it locks the diff drop the rear shaft off in total then start the engine, turn it and drive away... take it easy because your handling will be a bit wiggy and then rebuild both the shafts when you get home.

Thanks dave. I"ll try or get the mech to try itt tommorow. Btwn do I need to turn it clockwise or snti clock wise ? And how far?
Thnks again.

Think Dave is talking about the CDL, didnt you recently install a Ashcroft CDL kit..?


Cheers Ean

correct, engage CDL, remove damaged shaft drive on carefully.

its only about 1/8-1/4 of a turn to get it to engage,

the easy way to check if its engaged is with the damaged shaft removed, the vehicle chocked, brakes off, parkbrake off and in gear on the tcase and main box (park if its a sludger) turn the output flange thats not got a shaft on it while you turn the selector once it stops turning the CDL is in, Give the flange a rock back and forth while you maintain a little effort on the selector to make sure its in and you're away.

Yes it works. Luckily I install the cdl. The best investment on my d2. Thanks a lot guys.
Now evryone happy knowing we can all go home.

in case I havent already said it...

TAKE IT EASY. the handling will be different and if you have a trailer on the back it'll be worse.

Got me confused ...............

Is the "front rear" uni joint the front one on the rear driveshaft, or the rear one on the front driveshaft ??

I recently had all joints on the front shaft replaced with greasable ones by Hardie Spicer in Kalgoorlie. Nothing wrong with the originals, but just starting to develop a slight squeak in the double cardan joint which I could only pick up as I drove slowly up the laneway behind the house - but better to be safe than sorry. The noise is gone now.

Dropped the sump at the same time to do the oil pump bolt. Was already tight with loctite on the thread, but again, the peace of mine was worth the effort.

Just wondering if it's worth replacing the uni joints on the rear shaft as well ?

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

in case I havent already said it...

TAKE IT EASY. the handling will be different and if you have a trailer on the back it'll be worse.

The handling without the front shaft is a bit different but it is not too bad really.

Anyone knows where can I get them replaced with greasable one in or close to south west of melbourne?