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Thread: WONT START TD5

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jordos D2 View Post
    ok i have tryd this a few times now and still no go it blows smoke and sounds like it wants togo then goes to a nice smoth cranking and the check engine light comes on ?? wtf
    id keep bleading it, you have run it till it stoped with air, there will be air in every psoibull spot,, and will take alot of bleading, blead it another 2-3 times and try cranking agen

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by alien d2 View Post
    Step 6 from book requires the starter to be held in the start mode until the throtle is at Half throtle. Don't turn from start to run till then.
    See how you go.It will blow smoke as said.

    As JC said hook up a jump batt., could be picking up low voltage while cranking bringing on the dash light.
    Correct, the check engine light will come on if extended cranking and the battery is getting low. I'd personally walk away from it for about 15 minutes like I said to let things cool and the battery gets topped up. If you were to get into the engine management fault code section you'd see a 'noisy cranking signal' code, this is what puts up the engine check lamp.
    Continuing to crank with the check lamp on is useless, it has already stopped injecting fuel.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #13
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    ok ive finely got it going now it has a rough idle like it has 1 injector out ?? will this go when i hold the pedal down at say 1200 rpm it slowly brings the revs up itself after that

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jordos D2 View Post
    ok ive finely got it going now it has a rough idle like it has 1 injector out ?? will this go when i hold the pedal down at say 1200 rpm it slowly brings the revs up itself after that
    Best thing to do now is drive it. It'll be a bit smoky I reckon

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #15
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    its all good now took it for a spin ggoes great a huge thanks to JC, STIG0000, alien d2, for all your and very quick reply`s your help was awsom cause it had me fkd

  6. #16
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    so is it reving past 3100rpm now?

    cheers phil

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by discowhite View Post
    so is it reving past 3100rpm now?

    cheers phil
    Ahhh, the penny drops

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by discowhite View Post
    so is it reving past 3100rpm now?

    cheers phil

    no it still gets there (3100rpm) and dies off i have done all that you advised me on im going to get the fault codes cleared tommorow and see what comes from that

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jordos D2 View Post
    no it still gets there (3100rpm) and dies off i have done all that you advised me on im going to get the fault codes cleared tommorow and see what comes from that
    after all the chat's we've had and taking into account this hard bleed issue, and speaking to JC, get where ever you taking it too to check the fuel pressure you may well have a dying fuel pump and or fuel regulator.

    cheers phil

  10. #20
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    Eargasmic Sound

    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Did you bleed it 3 to 4 times BEFORE driving it? If not, it will be VERY airated. Turn key to 'on' pos and wait till fuel pump times out, repeat 4 to 5 times, then try cranking WITH FOOT ON ACCELERATOR TO THE FLOOR while cranking.

    Battery MUST be in good nick.

    JC
    Awesome, this is the page i found after a fair amount of research here at Aulro.

    I'd had the alternator off a 01 D2 Td5 and replaced what i believed to be a faulty regulator. I was convinced the only way to r&r the alt was to r&r the intake manifold to make room. A fuel cooler, which i disconnected and moved out of the way, is bolted to the rear of said manifold. With the alt back on and temp bolts holding everything else together, i turned the key to purge air from the fuel lines but noticed there was no noise from the pump. Indeed it sounded very dead.

    With info found at this site i located the fuel pump relay and by-passed it with a jump wire but still no noise.

    There's a black widow storage system blocking access to the pump cover so off with the tow bar and out with the fuel tank. Tested the pump by connecting a battery to the wires i traced as the main feed .. and then ordered a new fuel pump.

    I installed a new f/filter whilst i waited for parts. With so many fuel lines off, there was bound to be a system FULL of air.

    After searching these hallowed pages, i followed this recommendation found and referred to here.

    The new pump was noisy for ages but it did eventually quieten down, the only thing i forgot to do was hold the accelerator pedal to the floor. Nothing 1st hit but 2nd hit it started to splutter into life. 2 or 3 more attempts and the engine was running !!

    The most beautiful eargasmic sound i have heard for a long time. After worrying about it since the original pump 1st failed 3 weeks back, i've only had a chance here and there to get back to this job but persistance has paid off and i'm a happy bloke.

    Cheers, Danny.

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