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Thread: Td5 top radiator hose bleed screw

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Harwood NSW
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    78
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    dont waste your money buying brass bleed screws, when mine broke i just replaced it with a M6x12 countersunk bolt and it slealed fine and have had no problems since
    and as for the festn of the old plug, if you can get an m4 lefthanded drill and crarfully drill out the old blank, you will be ok and as a prcaution i ran an M6 tap through the hole and all was good!
    Last edited by bluelightdisco; 18th April 2011 at 08:02 PM. Reason: more info

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Brisbane Bayside
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    Multigrips near radiator cores and me,,,,,,a bad combination, nearly put a whole in the radiator taking the lower hose clamp off using multi grips when they sprung open. Too lazy to put a piece of ply over the core..that's me!!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Adelaide, southern foothills
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    I replaced every hose on our td5 yesterday after the LR specialist scared me by saying they start to go after 120,000km. That top hose clamp was the last one I did and at midnight it sure stretches your patience!I started at midday and finished about midnight (with 3hrs break at dinner/ kids bath time). What a tangle of hoses! - most cant be taken off/ replaced one at a time, more like take one end off this one, to get to one end of that one, which is covering the end of another one!
    Most hoses looked ok except the top hose was almost rubbed through on the a/c compressor hose. I'm glad its done as it gives the confidence that we can go away not being paranoid that a hose will go in the middle of nowhere. My f-i-l took it to the Flinders today so I'm glad I don't have to worry that it'll give him trouble.
    PS: I put a brass screw in the new top hose.

  4. #24
    Zute Guest
    How did you go with the fuel cooler hoses that run to the radiator ?

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Adelaide, southern foothills
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    Fuel cooler hoses

    Hey Zute,
    They were all testing!
    I took the fan and shroud off otherwise I can't see how I would have had access. To get the fan off I took one of the belt pulley 10mm bolts off and undid the fan hub with a big shifter.
    For the hose from the fuel cooler to the radiator the clamp was facing away from me, obviously put on the radiator before it was installed in the vehicle. I got a small ring spanner and hooked it on the small tag of the clamp at the rad end and then spun the clip until I could get the multi-grips onto it. I did the same with the hose from the rad to the thermostat.
    The biggest pain with using multi-grips is that when they slip off in one of many failed attempts, the spring clamp rotates on the hose and slips away from where you can grab it. The ring spanner trick was the only way to get the clamp back to a place I could access it. Make sure you pull on the tag in the direction that releases its tension.
    I used screw type clamps where ever possible including all those at the fuel cooler.
    Did that answer your question? I'm still seeing hoses and clamps when I close my eyes!!

  6. #26
    Zute Guest
    They were the only two hoses I didnt replace. Other hoses I took off were in good condition, so rather than upset the cooler too much and the fact I couldnt get to the radiator end, I just left them. But now I know to remove the fan and shoud, I may do them when I next change the fan belt.
    Thanks.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Australia
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    Smile Td5 top radiator hose bleed screw - easy removal

    Having trawled this forum for years for information of all sorts, I'm happy to be able to make a contribution at last. Like many people before me, I snapped the head off my radiator/top hose bleed screw and was looking down the barrel of replacing the hose set. While I have a hose set I acquired some years ago in preparation for a trip, I figured I'd try the screw first. Nothing to lose.... a few hours to gain if I could avoid the hose job.

    Half an hour into my online research I found a reference to using screwdriver with a heated tip to act as an "ezy-out". Brilliant idea! I tried it and it works a treat. Find attached series of photos to illustrate. I used a butane type soldering tool to heat the tip and was careful not to push too hard into the exposed shank of the plastic screw.

    I'll replace the bleed screw with a brass one this week or, if funds permit, get an engine saver.

    Markoh
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Gold Coast QLD
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    That's cleaver I'll lock that in my memory bank sometime simple is best.

  9. #29
    NWTASD2 Guest
    So the stainless steel nut on the inside of my hose has come loose in the system while I was changing my thermostat and preparing to change fluid.


    I have retreaved the the nut by flushing the system.

    NOW WHAT.

    My Options are to : Can I cut my top hose and find a JOINER at super-cheap tommorow Sunday.(So I can reatach the SCREW and NUT.

    Or can I Put BUNG in it as descibed above?

    Or can Replace hose?

    Car has 200K they were VERY hard to get off. EG some calcification around heater pipe and block inlet pipe.

    Any adive will be helpfull

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
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    14,152
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    I would also be changing the"HIDDEN HOSE"

    Regards Philip A

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