Both the D1 and D2 use the same difflock switch in the same place on the transfer boxoutput housing (top) d2a's had 2 difflock switches fitted, why I dont know it makes no sense to me, the second one was added to the front face of the output housing, but you wont need it, 1 is enough.
As far as having CDL + TC, it will depend on the year of your truck, the later SLABS ECU's were re-programmed to ignore the Difflock swith input, so it wont throw the 3 amigos up hence disabling the TC.
If it does, then by far the simplest option is to cut the feed from the difflock switch to the SLABS ECU, that way it does not care whether the CDL is in or out when you start the car, you always have CDL + TC (best option imo)
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Thanks UP. The problem is thought that, as I see it, I still need the high low switch...which the D1 does not have, so I am having to deal with that to ensure the SLABS gives me HDC...(and agressive ETC).
I will look up the cut procedure again for the stall/engine off side of things.
Cheers
Thanks Ozscott,
This explains something that has been bugging me ever since I had my cdl installed, that is, HDC would not lock in.
Seems I may not have the high/low switch installed now either.
I will be keeping a close eye on this thread for a solution.
May be as simple as installing a new switch on the high/low lever itself.
Cheers,
Alan
The CDL switch is on all D1 and D2 fitted with the CDL internals. The second switch (on the front face of the output housing just below the Hi/Lo actuator cover) is on all D2. It is the Hi/Low switch which is actuated by the end of the Hi/Lo selector shaft in the transfer case. You need that switch also or need to put in another switch somewhere to tell the electronic system which ratio is selected.
regards
gask - thanks - yep mate that is my problem. I suspect the loom and plug is there for the diff lock switch and it should plug on or can be wired to suit the D1 switch. Its a case then of the High Low switch either being drilled and tapped into the D2 output housing or using a dash mounted switch say...
Cheers
The D1 transfer case is not very thick where the switch needs to be mounted. In the photo of the ashcroft front housing earlier in this thread it has been reinforced by welding a piece on the outside then drilled and tapped. This is the way I think I will go to modify the front housing on the ex D1 transfer case that I have. I'll also blank off the speedometer output hole in the rear output housing or maybe just swap that housing over from the D2.
Regards
Yes Im aware of the high /low switches on all D2's, I was replying to the "ops" difflock switch question on the previous page,
D1 and pre-facelift D2 difflock switch. Item 11
The D2a has 2 difflock switches, and the second one is on the front of the output housing next to the prop.... picture below. Item 24
High / Low switch Item 33.
Because of this reason below
It probably has a seized motor, it doesn't take long before they stuff up, everyone I know that has had the AMV electric actuator has had this problem.
The first signs are it only works intermittently, then after a while it will only work if you tap the difflock housing, then it stops all together.
$170 for a new motor.
Baz.
Cheers Baz.
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